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Old 01-09-2006, 10:05 AM
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Retrofit of the BMW Navigation system in a X5

Contributed by: JPuma



BMW X5 Nav Retrofit




First I would like to thank everyone who helped me pull this off, but
specifically......Chris @ Crevier, you rule!! Parag from TVonNAV, Moni from
Nav-TV, Jeff (UCrewX5) xoutpost.com. I would also like to thank all these guys for their input: TripleX5, X5Monkey, IFlyX5, TESV12,
HDD3MD and JMDXX5. 

Background: I originally purchased my 01 CPO'd BMW without Navigation. I didn't
think it was much of a big deal not having factory nav since I was familiar with
aftermarket Navigation systems, and I never really saw the BMW Nav system at the
time. I was also told from the dealer that the Navi option was not available on
pre 04 X5's (I'm not kidding). Actually he went on saying the only time you
will see navigation in a BMW is if the vehicle had all the option packages. I
guess he was giving me that "feel good" response that BMW is known
for. After a
few days and some investigating/research I quickly realized I wanted the factory
navigation system. I immediately fell in love with the factory look. You cant
beat how the 16:9 widescreen screen looks in the dash compared to flip-up LCD's
in the dash or a mounted LCD on the dash. I definitely wasn't going to mount
anything on the dash, that's for sure. I also found out that it is not wise to
remove the MID; which is what you would have to do to install a in-dash flip up
LCD Navi system. So that is where my mission begins. 



A few things on SA555: In the manual it says "These installation
instructions are only valid for cars with a SA555 high on-board computer".
Thought the statement is correct, it is not to say that you cant install
navigation in a car with a "low OBC". The SA555 high on-board computer
provides the navigation system with speed, fuel consumption, trip data and date
and time. You will also not have the option in your menu for "AUX Ventilation";
which is a function of the SA555 to set your ventilation system to go on and off
whenever you'd like. In my discovery process I found out that the two wires that
run from the navigation harness to the cluster can be hooked up to the low
cluster as well. The wires are TAA and DFAHL.
These wires exist on the low cluster as well, but hooking them up had no effect.
You can do a cluster upgrade if you'd like. I would suggest the 4.6 cluster
since it has the silver rings around the gauge holes, very nice! I am planning my
own cluster upgrade soon, but for now you can refer here
for more information. Thanks to Jesper for providing this information.



 


BMW X5 16:9 Retrofit Installation Guide


Parts:




 


Some parts are not necessary and some numbers don't exist anymore but all
major parts are in the list. You cannot get the Halter BoardMonitor Oben 65 52 0
138 220. This is an engineering part and cannot be ordered from Germany. This
part is used to mount the brackets for the dash conversion. I had to be creative
and come up an alternative. You'll need some L shaped plastic to replicate the
part or something like it. Review the dash conversion for greater detail. 


Here are some pics of the parts I purchased. I purchased almost all parts new
from Chris
at Crevier
. I purchased the nav harness on eBay but I don't have a picture
for it. It came with the radio connectors cut for the front and rear. This made
the project a bit complicated but Parag from TVonNAV
came through like a champ. I will get to all that later. I originally bought a
used 02 radio but wound up buying a new 03 to get the AUX inputs option. I will
also be able to add a hands free kit and integrate it with the audio system when
I am ready.  BMW has a retrofit nav harness -
BMW wiring harness 

61-12-6-910-148 X5 harness w/DSP.



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Phase 1: Taking the X5 apart


I was able to make PDF's out of most of the TIS
documents referenced in the installation manual. They are in numeric order here
and not in the disassemble order which they are referenced in the installation manual.




  • 37 22 540.pdf

  • 51 16 200.pdf

  • 51 16 204.pdf

  • 51 16 221.pdf

  • 51 37 261.pdf

  • 51 43 075.pdf


  • 51 43 150.pdf

  • 51 43 251.pdf

  • 51 43 252.pdf

  • 51 45 180.pdf

  • 51 45 181.pdf

  • 51 45 185.pdf


  • 51 46 050.pdf

  • 51 47 000.pdf

  • 51 47 101.pdf

  • 51 47 172.pdf

  • 51 49 053.pdf

  • 51 49 056.pdf


  • 51 71 412.pdf

  • 52 14 000.pdf

  • 52 26 005.pdf

  • 52 26 008.pdf

  • 62 21 000.pdf

  • 63 31 023.pdf


  • 64 01 020.pdf

  • 64 11 749.pdf

  • 64 22 161.pdf

  • 64 22 190.pdf

  • 65 11 030.pdf

  • 65 81 010.pdf



  • Phase 2: Installing the Harness


    I kind of rushed into this and didn't take the right pictures. But Ill make
    due with what I have. As you can see I have the Nav harness wires already coming
    out of the dash. See the cut wires...that's how I got the harness from this guy
    on eBay. Don't do like I did, be patient and wait till you get the right parts. Luckily
    Parag saved the day by sending me a old style to new style radio adapter. It was
    a short cable that had the different connectors on both ends. It is an unknown
    BMW part. Probably used by BMW to install the new model radio modules in a old production
    model BMW. I used the old style end in the front to
    connect the harness to the existing radio harness and the new style plug was
    soldered to the cut wires in the rear for the 02 and up radio modules. All the
    colors matched up. I also confirmed each connector pin outs, you can find them
    here old style, new style. I guess I
    would of needed this part even if the wires weren't cut to adapt the nav harness
    cable to fit a 02 and up radio module.



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    Nav harness install and existing radio connector (Old style round pins)










     


    I didn't remove my entire center console like it said in the retrofit install
    manual. I didn't see a need two. I did have to unscrew the screws that secured
    the rear part of the console to the front part of the console. I was able to
    lift the rug enough to see under it when routing the harness wire through. This
    is where I wish I had more pictures. As instructed in the install manual I had to
    cut the front half of the carpet near the front part of the console on the
    drivers side to route the harness underneath it. While I was running the harness
    I found the hands free pre wired harness. It was way underneath the rug under
    the center console. I moved it somewhere under the console for easy access in
    the future. If you're documenting your install, take as many pictures as you can,
    It may be helpful in the end. Again, no
    pictures of the rear left side...this was a tricky part. It was a PITA to remove
    the siding that has the antenna connections under it. I also had to disassemble
    the railing for the sliding cover and its aluminum mount. Just take your time in
    the back, you'll need it. Make sure you bought extra rivets since you may need
    to break some when taking the rear apart. Don't forget pillar clip locks. Not
    sure of the name. p/n: 51 43 8 225 567.



    P1010031.jpg (41196 bytes)


    This is the two wires that hook up to the
    cluster, TAA and DFAHL.
    If you have a high cluster follow the instructions in the retrofit install
    manual, otherwise view the links for each signal to see which wires to hook up
    to for the low cluster (A2 in the diagram). I don't have pictures of the wire
    hookup to the LCM, follow the manual to complete that hookup.










     



       



    Continue to the rear with installing the
    harness. Hookup your antenna wires, replacing two existing antenna hookups of
    the business radio with CD. If you are adding a 02 and up radio module you will
    need a antenna adapter for the radio tuner. Contact Parag for this part, or get
    the antenna lead from Chris at Crevier. I actually ordered this part
    (61-12-6-916-315) by mistake and did not use it. When I removed the cover to the
    multipurpose compartment I found some existing wires, PDC and something else? 



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    You can skip this part if you want. Here I am preparing the connectors to be
    soldered on to the harness as well as showing the connections soldered and insulated.
    It was fun to do, but with all the other things
    ahead of me, I wish I didn't have to do this.



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    Now for the antenna install. Here are pictures
    of both the GPS and Diversity antenna installation. There are a total of 5 bolts
    that hold the spoiler together. Two are under black grommets, pull them off.
    Mount the GPS antenna with two bolts and secure the rubber grommet in hole next
    to the antenna. Run the wire trough the hole on the other side and connect it to
    the GPS antenna extension. For the Diversity antenna I mounted it on the top
    part of the spoiler. It appears that there is another antenna up there, probably
    for the radio. I used some silicon to fix the center part of the antenna to the
    top of the spoiler. The inside of my spoiler was a bit dusty and dirty and the
    adhesive contacts that come on the diversity antenna would not sick well. I
    wound up popping a hole through an existing grommet for the existing antenna and
    ran my wires through there. I put some silicone around the wire as it entered
    the hole in the grommet to prevent leaks. Run the antenna wire out of the other
    hole on the inside of the rear door. Now that both GPS and Diversity antenna
    wires on on that side, tape them to the frame as they move along towards the
    wire grommet that connects between the rear door and the body of the vehicle.
    Use a wire hanger to snake the wires through the grommet. BE CAREFUL NOT TO
    PULL THE WIRES TOO HARD
    . You can easily damage the coaxial cable or possibly
    rip the connector ends off as you pull the wires through grommet. Do one wire at
    a time. You'll have to pull the roof down a little to get to the wire as you
    snake them into the roof of the body. I got some good close up shots of that.
    Run them down the D pillar and not the C pillar, you'll save your self a big
    head ache. Run the GPS antenna where the Nav brain will be mounted and run the
    diversity antenna wires following the path of the nav harness down to the
    multipurpose tray.



    Phase 3: Dash Conversion



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    To cut the dash I used a dremel. Make sure you
    have a little vacuum handy, there will be a lot of plastic everywhere when you're
    done. The cutting went pretty smooth but I knew I was faced with a challenge
    when it came time to figuring out how I am going to mount the brackets without
    the Halter BoardMonitor Oben. I wound up finding some plastic that had a L shape
    to it. I trimmed it up so that it can be screwed into the bottom part of the
    vent divider and have a flat service where the clips would go. I dremeled a slit
    in the flat part of the plastic so the screw can pass through the plastic when
    the clip is on it. Make sure the clips sit leveled with the frame that divides
    the air vent and the on-board monitor opening. Make sure the top part of the
    brackets are not too forward and not set too far back. I filed down all the
    edges when I was done and vacuumed everything, get inside the dash good. I actually
    got a perfect flush fit the first time. 



    If you bought the on-board monitor brand new
    along with the housing, you will not get the screws that mount the monitor to
    the housing. I was able to find screws that I had laying around from computer
    parts. Make sure you can find the screws to mount the entire housing to the brackets,
    the part # is in the parts list.


     


    Phase 4: Radio Tuner / TV on Nav Module



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    Money Shots:



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    P1010065.jpg (61275 bytes)


      


     

    By: Joseph Puma jpuma@verizon.net


     


     






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