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#21
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http://www.amazon.com/Goliton%C2%AE-...bxgy_263_img_y
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
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#22
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Quote:
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2008 4.8i Black with Tabacco. Black Y-spoke wheels and shadowline trim. |
#23
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Yes I think he did too. Not all 2001 have the 20 pin under the hood. I don't, and I can acess everything from the 16 pin under the dash.
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#24
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Oh man... Darn it. I did not order that round adapter.
Hmmm... Where is that connector in the engine bay? I have never seen it. Searching for images now... |
#25
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I have looked briefly at the No MAF Log and the LTFT is 0% once the engine goes into closed loop and the STFT is making the fuel adjustments which makes sense. But your comment about the MAF female terminals being tight is not something you can just assume is the case. Often aftermarket MAF's use slightly smaller pins in the sensor. But if it was my vehicle, I would but a proper Seimens/VDO or Bosch sensor, what ever brand was OE. One other thing to try is to disconnect the connector on the Evap solenoid under the intake and just see if things change.
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2008 4.8i Black with Tabacco. Black Y-spoke wheels and shadowline trim. |
#26
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I believe the 20 pin vs 16 pin was split in 2001 depending on build date. I have a 2001 and use the 20 pin connector. OP It's located above the driver wheel well under the hood.
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#27
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Hi friends. Ok... Mine is a 10/2000 build date model. They did not use the round connector on this one. Thanks for helping me figure out that part as well! I did find a photo on the internet for the E53 that had the port: in their case it was located inside the engine compartment, above the wheel well right behind the air intake filter box, just like @Sundevil said in this thread. But mine has nothing there.
The scanner will not arrive until tomorrow... Can't wait! :-) Ok... In the meantime: one step forward, two steps back because the EML light came back on, and so did the P1500 code. However, I did the smoke test (that was fun!) and it leaked JUST like and on the same spot as shown on the video that @jfof posted earlier in this thread... So, I removed the DISA again. I know realized that the molded-in gasket/o-ring on the circular portion of the DISA is shrunk/worn-out and so I am sure it is not doing much sealing! Below is a photo of my DISA... Notice how flush the orange stuff is to the circular body of the valve. The DISA is relatively new, and it passed the vacuum test (see DISA TEST). Nevertheless, I am contemplating doing some preventive work on it failing and upgrading it with this kit. Before doing that upgrade though, I would like to check if the darn o-ring is causing all these problems, so I was thinking of scraping off the molded o-ring and using this sensor-safe RTV silicone gasket maker to temporarily seal it while we determine if the o-ring is the culprit... Thoughts on that? I could order a new o-ring, but then I'd have to wait days for the darn thing to show up at my door and I REALLY want to test this out right away. lol |
#28
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DISA leaking is a FAMOUS problem area.
DO NOT scrape the silicon out at this point. You can take a piece of standard electrical tape the length of the seal. Cut/split the tape in 1/2 lengthwise and put the single wrap over the seal. Reinstall the DISA and order an O-ring. BTW, the DISA leaking will not be your primary problem, it could have added to your problems, but you likely have more than one problem! Not sure if you should dump the cash on the rebuilt kit at this time, you will need to judge this, but the DISA is easy enough to pull out and sort out later. Shaking the DISA it should be silent, any noise, something is loose and it should be rebuilt. DISA should be have a bit of resistance for the last 1/4" of installation and required some bit of a tug to remove, if not, the O-ring/Seal is too loose. BMW screwed up on this design, they should have had a face seal rather than an inside circumference seal. If your engine has the original Intake boots and CCV/hoses, it is overdue or at least due for replacement. Have the pre-cat O2 sensors ever been disconnected, possibly for a valve cover replacement? Did you try to run the engine with the Evap solenoid under the front of the intake disconnected? I have not had a chance to look over the 2nd data Log with the MAF connected, but I would highly recommend a proper MAF. Also smoke test the engine again, pull the oil fill cap, wait until smoke starts to exit the valve cover, then cap off the valve cover and check for leaks carefully around the valve cover and CCV/hoses. Sometimes it is better to smoke test in the dark so the smoke can be seen easier with a strong flashlight.
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2008 4.8i Black with Tabacco. Black Y-spoke wheels and shadowline trim. Last edited by jfoj; 10-15-2015 at 12:11 AM. |
#29
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Hi. I still have to look into doing the graphs you suggested and testing with the evap disconnected. I gotta figure out where exactly that part is first! Lol
I ordered a new VDO MAF from autozone. If should get here next week. OK. I will try the tape on the DISA and redo the smoke test. Yes, I did the engine smoke test while it was dark with my son. I had read that same advice somewhere. Great father&son quality time there... He spotted the leak with the flashlight as I was pumping the smoke... We did remove the engine oil cap and saw smoke coming out from there then we closed it... That's when we stated seeing the smoke coming out from around the DISA. That's all we were able to do today. I will have some time tomorrow during the day to redo the smoke test with the DISA taped off. But may not get to do much else, busy with the kids tomorrow night... Thank you!
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2001 BMW X5 3.0i, Automatic, Gasoline |
#30
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I replaced the oil separator, boots and hoses a few years back. I used the cold weather version of those parts. That was a pain in the rear to do!! ☺
I do not know for sure if the pre-cat O2 sensors have been disconnected or ever replaced. I think they may have done that many years ago but I can't recall. When I inspected that area of the engine today I did notice that the front most O2 sensor and the metal to which it plug/screw into had a white mark... It looks like a mark to remember the position of the sensor.
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2001 BMW X5 3.0i, Automatic, Gasoline |
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