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  #1  
Old 01-25-2016, 02:10 PM
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K-temp -128 in cluster?? (FIXED)

Hey, fellow X'ers. Haven't posted in awhile, but I lurk daily. Got a new issue that came up. One of my coolant hoses split the other day, so I reinstalled it, and filled it back up with coolant/distilled water and led the system. The only problem is that my temperature needle stays pegged above red, and the ktemp readout says -128. The only conclusion I've come to is that there is an open circuit somewhere, and both readout are in their default positions. But I thought the items readout and the needle got their info from separate sensors? Where do I start looking?
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rear air bags
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2017 GMC Sierra, 7K miles...
2017 GMC Sierra, 60K miles...
2015 GMC Sierra 280K miles...
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Previous wheels:

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Last edited by mam4.6; 01-28-2016 at 07:12 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-25-2016, 02:40 PM
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Did you check the electrical connectors (temp sensor and thermostat) on the water pump and thermostat were all put back and fully seated? Seems like the place to start.
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Old 01-25-2016, 07:14 PM
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Checked all of that, unseated and reseated, to no avail. Is there a chance the sensor just sent bad?
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Current-

--2003 X5 4.6
Estoril Blue
Black Nappa leather
rear air bags
OEM nav
OEM hitch
OEM cargo liner
Black housing SPYDER headlights - Evo-XR projectors

2017 GMC Sierra, 7K miles...
2017 GMC Sierra, 60K miles...
2015 GMC Sierra 280K miles...
2011 GMC Sierra, 500K miles...

Previous wheels:

--First love~
1969 Chevy C10, 396BB bored, 3 on the tree, Black ~SOLD~

--2011 Chevy Silverado LT 2500HD CCSB, Black, 250K miles ~SOLD~
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  #4  
Old 01-25-2016, 08:12 PM
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hmmm. not an easy one.

So, yes, I have no problem imaging you have a defective temperature sensor. It happens.

I would check the grounding first - do you have good ground between the block and frame (the ground strap is in front of the right front wheel, attaches to (or near) the motor mount. Second is the mounting of the sensor itself - any chance you used rtv / antisieze / teflon tape that might be interfering with the ground connection?

The good news is that the sensor can be replaced without dismantling the water pump and thermostat assembly...
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Last edited by David.X5; 01-25-2016 at 08:19 PM.
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  #5  
Old 01-25-2016, 10:26 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions. I'll make sure and check the grounding before continuing with anything else. No, I haven't used anything on the threads, either. Should be fairly simple to swap out the sensor, as I have one laying here. I'll try that this week sometime...
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Current-

--2003 X5 4.6
Estoril Blue
Black Nappa leather
rear air bags
OEM nav
OEM hitch
OEM cargo liner
Black housing SPYDER headlights - Evo-XR projectors

2017 GMC Sierra, 7K miles...
2017 GMC Sierra, 60K miles...
2015 GMC Sierra 280K miles...
2011 GMC Sierra, 500K miles...

Previous wheels:

--First love~
1969 Chevy C10, 396BB bored, 3 on the tree, Black ~SOLD~

--2011 Chevy Silverado LT 2500HD CCSB, Black, 250K miles ~SOLD~
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  #6  
Old 01-26-2016, 05:13 PM
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So I replaced my double temp sensor, the one that screws into the block. Still does the same thing. I did notice my lower radiator hose isn't getting hot. So?? Could it be I have a bad thermostat? It was replaced with an oem piece less than 2 years ago...
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Current-

--2003 X5 4.6
Estoril Blue
Black Nappa leather
rear air bags
OEM nav
OEM hitch
OEM cargo liner
Black housing SPYDER headlights - Evo-XR projectors

2017 GMC Sierra, 7K miles...
2017 GMC Sierra, 60K miles...
2015 GMC Sierra 280K miles...
2011 GMC Sierra, 500K miles...

Previous wheels:

--First love~
1969 Chevy C10, 396BB bored, 3 on the tree, Black ~SOLD~

--2011 Chevy Silverado LT 2500HD CCSB, Black, 250K miles ~SOLD~
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  #7  
Old 01-26-2016, 05:54 PM
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There may still be air in the system or the coolant could still be low. Won't hurt to bleed the system again.
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Old 01-26-2016, 06:13 PM
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Would you drain again? I've open the cap and cycle the heater valve, revved the engine, etc, the normal steps for bleeding, and can't get any more bubbles in the expansion tank.
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Current-

--2003 X5 4.6
Estoril Blue
Black Nappa leather
rear air bags
OEM nav
OEM hitch
OEM cargo liner
Black housing SPYDER headlights - Evo-XR projectors

2017 GMC Sierra, 7K miles...
2017 GMC Sierra, 60K miles...
2015 GMC Sierra 280K miles...
2011 GMC Sierra, 500K miles...

Previous wheels:

--First love~
1969 Chevy C10, 396BB bored, 3 on the tree, Black ~SOLD~

--2011 Chevy Silverado LT 2500HD CCSB, Black, 250K miles ~SOLD~
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  #9  
Old 01-26-2016, 06:19 PM
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I might add I'm getting good cabin heat...
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Current-

--2003 X5 4.6
Estoril Blue
Black Nappa leather
rear air bags
OEM nav
OEM hitch
OEM cargo liner
Black housing SPYDER headlights - Evo-XR projectors

2017 GMC Sierra, 7K miles...
2017 GMC Sierra, 60K miles...
2015 GMC Sierra 280K miles...
2011 GMC Sierra, 500K miles...

Previous wheels:

--First love~
1969 Chevy C10, 396BB bored, 3 on the tree, Black ~SOLD~

--2011 Chevy Silverado LT 2500HD CCSB, Black, 250K miles ~SOLD~
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  #10  
Old 01-26-2016, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mam4.6 View Post
Would you drain again? I've open the cap and cycle the heater valve, revved the engine, etc, the normal steps for bleeding, and can't get any more bubbles in the expansion tank.
No, top off the coolant, bring the engine to temperature with the heater at max heat, leave the cap on and open the bleed screw which is new to the expansion tank cap. Leave it slightly open wait until no bubbles come out. You are getting heat from the heater?
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