Need Help--Electrical/starting problem

[StephenVA]

Solution: Known good battery

Congrats! It sounded painful as can be. Glad you were able to determine the failed batteries and the source was able to replace them without any impact to your wallet.

[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by 80stech

Haha, whoops, Sorry I didn't put the quotes around it!

Yes, I did say that, that was the confusing part at that time. I was sure they had always been the same. At my age I may have been confused. I could have had the cutoff switch not properly in place. I don't have a clue how I did that but obviously that was not the case.

[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by StephenVA

Solution: Known good battery

Congrats! It sounded painful as can be. Glad you were able to determine the failed batteries and the source was able to replace them without any impact to your wallet.

I'm hopeful I will forget about the pain in 3-4 years.

Batteries were from AutoZone. Have purchased many over the years and never had a problem. The one I replaced that was over 7 years old was also from AutoZone. Had to be a bad batch of batteries. I think that was the reason the manager replaced it with a different model.

[g300d]

So it was the battery? Ugh, what a nightmare!

Glad you got that fixed finally.

[bcredliner]

It's baaack.

After several days of all is well I decided to move it to the other side of the garage before we left on vacation. I backed out and pulled in and shut it off. Then I decided to pull it forward a bit. Turned the key and the dash went black. Hooked up the charger to the jump posts under the hood. Angel eyes and dash light came on but dim. Tried to start it, wouldn't crank and dash went back to black. Checked the voltage at the battery-- 12.6. I wonder if the battery in the key or the key itself is not always sending a signal to the security system. I know that won't allow the engine to crank but don't know if that shuts down everything. I can't remember the last time I changed the battery. I try never to chase a problem with new parts but thinking about ordering an ignition switch.

So this has been two problems, no wonder it has been so confusing. Well, the battery part is resolved. Now to find what else has been going on.

Thoughts?

[srmmmm]

Just remembered I had the same issue with my key for the CEO's 325i. It would not open the doors remotely anymore, but when I attempted to start the car, all it would do was light up the dash lights. It would not turn the engine over. Dealer said the key was toast, possibly from water submersion. (Don't ask me how that could happen when you fall off the dock while getting on a waverunner).

2002 X5 3.0 305,400 miles
2014 428i 19,700 miles

2004 325i sold at 123,600 (with a funky key)
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles

1970 Firebird - Undergoing restoration

[bcredliner]

I am using the original key but it has not been exposed to any water.

One thing I haven't done which I avoid if at all possible is to try to find the wiring schematic in the handy dandy Bentley service manual. I take a look at that when I get back from the North woods.

[evertonfc]

if the EWS is the problem ( i have the same problem) and the usual key wont start, if I use the valet key (which I assume is non-electronic) and it starts is that a good indication that the EWS is the problem? no thread hijack intended, i'm just trying to figure out a way to test the EWS is functioning correctly.

[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by evertonfc

if the EWS is the problem ( i have the same problem) and the usual key wont start, if I use the valet key (which I assume is non-electronic) and it starts is that a good indication that the EWS is the problem? no thread hijack intended, i'm just trying to figure out a way to test the EWS is functioning correctly.

I don't know for sure but logically it seems to me that if the EWS is bad it won't matter what key you use. Won't hurt anything to try.

[bcredliner]

An update.

Returned from vacation a few days ago and started troubleshooting the re-emerging no start problem. Checked the battery and voltage was fine but nothing was getting to dash, interior lights and it wouldn't crank.

This is a case where I couldn't find the a cause for the particular symptoms I was having and troubleshooting was getting me nowhere. Since the symptoms were closest to a bad ignition switch I replaced the switch. That fixed the problem. So I had a bad battery and a string of bad replacement batteries and a failing ignition switch just to make things more interesting.

FYI- I took the switch apart to see how it works and perhaps fix it. There is a plastic cylinder with ramps in various locations. There are 3 sets of points on either side of where the cylinder rotates. Depending on the position of the cylinder a particular set or sets of points are open or closed. Select points are open or closed depending on position of the key-opening or closing a circuit. The ramps are plastic and the points are metal. Since the ramps are the logical wear point any possible repair didn't make sense.