bad experience on cross drilled rotors

[ALOVERR69]

hi guy's i need help i bought these crossed drilled rotors and i paid a pretty penny for them.i bought them with the pads so i was excited to put them on.the guy told me this item will give you problems like stopping rough and squealing and guess what there doing exactly what he said he didnt know why but that many people called about the same problem but stubborn me didnt listen.has anybody had this problem with any other car that has crossed drilled rotors.do i have to wait till the rotor wears out a little or basicly just change it back to stock

[Wayne's World]

What brand/type? Where did you get them from?

[ALOVERR69]

sp-performance they where $140 per rotor and the brakes where 80 a set im just trying to figure out if its cheesy brake pads or if the rotor just needs some braking in

[The Cleaner]

What pads are they?

[ALOVERR69]

There called pbr metal masters they cost me 80 bucks for the front

[NyMench]

Any new pad rotor set should be "BEDED" before driving.

"If you've just installed a big brake kit or even if you've only changed your brake pads and rotors, you should "bed" them in by following the instructions below. Proper bedding of brakes will improve pedal feel, reduce or eliminate brake squeal, and extend the life of your pads and rotors.

When following these instructions, please avoid doing it in the presence of other vehicles. Breaking in your new pads and rotors is often best done very early in the morning, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and will respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. And an officer of the law will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving so erratically! Zeckhausen Racing does not endorse speeding on public roads and takes no responsibility for any injuries or tickets you may receive while following these instructions.

From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes to slow the car down to about 45mph, then accelerate back up to 60mph and repeat. Do this about four or five times to bring the brakes up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.

Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! (Note: With less aggressive street pads and/or stock brake calipers, you may need to do this fewer times. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.)

During this process, you must not come to a complete stop because you will transfer (imprint) pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors.

Depending on the pads you are using, the brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A bad smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.

After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and drive around for as long as possible without using the brakes. The brakes will need at least 10 minutes to cool down. Obviously, it's OK to use the brakes to avoid an accident, but try to minimize their use until they have cooled.

If club race pads, such as Pagid Orange or Porterfield R4, are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. If full race pads, such as Pagid Black, are being used, add four near-stops from 100 to 10 mph.

After the break-in cycle, there should be a blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer."

[The Cleaner]

Originally Posted by ALOVERR69

There called pbr metal masters they cost me 80 bucks for the front

For starters those pads (in my opinion) are complete garbage and prone to poor pedal feel and squeaking/grinding. I personally would use a Jurid pad, but if you want less dust go for a Textar ceramic (BMW and TUV approved pad) or Akebono.

Clean the rotors up really well and start over.

[ALOVERR69]

thank you guy's for the quick response im going to try the nymench approach then if that doesnt work im going to buy much better brake pads.but im still open to any experience and any info is better for me

[FSETH]

Originally Posted by The Cleaner

For starters those pads (in my opinion) are complete garbage and prone to poor pedal feel and squeaking/grinding.

I do not agree at all. I have been using Axxis XBG pads, which are exacly the same as the PBR Metal Masters and they are great. I have had 3 sets on my 325i and 1 on my X5. I paired them with Centric (StopTech) plain rotors on both cars and have zero complaints. No noise or squeaks at all and performance and feel are good as well.

It is important to properly bed in the pads. I would guess the issue is the rotor or the bedding process in this case.

One of Turner Motorsports best selling pad is the Axxis XBG/PBR Metal Master pad. They are definately good quality.

[KingCon]

If you don't bed the pads immediately after a brake job is it pointless to do so 10K after? Also, I only changed the fronts.