Replacing Brakes - are these rotors worth the money?

[msammy]

I just had the dreaded "check brake linings" message in the display after about 43K miles on the dealer-installed OEM brake rotors & pads (98K miles on our truck). I did a search but could not find any information on brake rotors in attached link below. I'm thinking of buying NAPA rotors that have the "hat" portion painted black - all 4 front/rear. I think these would look great with my 3.0i sport with all the black trim and shadow line trim and hopefully prevent the ugly rust on the hat of the rotor. Does anyone have any experience or opinion on the NAPA rotors that have the black painted hat, and if so, do they rust in the long-term?

Here's the link:

Store Locator | NAPA Online

AAA members get a 7% discount, so these rotors look like a pretty good deal and the added bonus of having the hats painted black looks nice. Any comments? Are these OK to use?

[JCL]

Personally, I would go with OEM rotors. Surface finish, and cooling fin design, are more important to me. If you want black, just paint the OEM rotor hats when you get them.

[Fraser]

I'd go the OEM rotors as well. As JCL says, if the black hats are you thing just paint the OEM rotor's hats with a high-quality heat-resistant paint.

[Brit6]

Go OEM, they also have a finish on them to prevent rust as well.

[FSETH]

Originally Posted by JCL

Personally, I would go with OEM rotors. Surface finish, and cooling fin design, are more important to me. If you want black, just paint the OEM rotor hats when you get them.

I went with these and have been very happy. Nearly 2 years later and there is no rust. The black looks so much better behind the wheel.

DRUMS AND ROTORS - Centric Parts

[Vsmvince]

Please go with Oem rotors. They cost more but they are significantly better.

[1stE53]

I too was looking for pads and rotors this week. I was real picky about picking out OE or something better. I was careful to choose ones that did NOT weigh more than the originals. I read multiple posts on this site (I love it!) and learned that my rotors were still in great shape. Well above the minimum tolerances I still have over 12mm. I decided to go with Jurid pads from autohausaz. Next change I will do both rotors and pads. I continue with Jurid ($89) if they act as stated (slightly better than OEM). I don't care about dust as I know the softer pads are better for stopping. I also decided to go with zimmerman Z coated rotors.

I will update on the performance of Jurid pads on OEM rotors in two weeks. They will arrive on Wednesday and I will change them next weekend.

[HPIA4v2]

Originally Posted by 1stE53

I too was looking for pads and rotors this week. I was real picky about picking out OE or something better. I was careful to choose ones that did NOT weigh more than the originals. I read multiple posts on this site (I love it!) and learned that my rotors were still in great shape. Well above the minimum tolerances I still have over 12mm. I decided to go with Jurid pads from autohausaz. Next change I will do both rotors and pads. I continue with Jurid ($89) if they act as stated (slightly better than OEM). I don't care about dust as I know the softer pads are better for stopping. I also decided to go with zimmerman Z coated rotors.

I will update on the performance of Jurid pads on OEM rotors in two weeks. They will arrive on Wednesday and I will change them next weekend.

On my last brake change just to satisfy my curiosity of answering the debate, "can you turn an OEM rotor and change the pads during brake job?"; I took out my Mitutoyo caliper (OK not micrometer but that all I have), and for the front rotors:
old rotor 28.7mm
new rotor 30.5mm

the back of rotor stamped, min 28.5mm, so No can't turn rotors (cause I believe once you turn 28.7mm it'll probably be around 28.5mm or less).

That's on 2002 4.4i.

BTW, I put mine in recycle bin but co-worker told me scrap metal place will pay by the pound on that hunk of steel maybe offset some of the cost but I just don't have time.

[1stE53]

Originally Posted by HPIA4v2

On my last brake change just to satisfy my curiosity of answering the debate, "can you turn an OEM rotor and change the pads during brake job?"; I took out my Mitutoyo caliper (OK not micrometer but that all I have), and for the front rotors:
old rotor 28.7mm
new rotor 30.5mm

the back of rotor stamped, min 28.5mm, so No can't turn rotors (cause I believe once you turn 28.7mm it'll probably be around 28.5mm or less).

That's on 2002 4.4i.

BTW, I put mine in recycle bin but co-worker told me scrap metal place will pay by the pound on that hunk of steel maybe offset some of the cost but I just don't have time.

Thanks for the info. I read were 10.2mm was the tell factor for replacement. I measured my entire width of my rotor and it is at 29.8mm. I wondered if the place I read that 10mm was just the measurement for just one plate, not the ventilation part of the rotor. So I measured it. What is the official way to measure?

[JCL]

Originally Posted by 1stE53

What is the official way to measure?

Across the full thickness, from one wear surface to the other. Make sure you aren't measuring the lip at the outer circumference, as the wear surface will often be worn in from that lip.