100k and beyond, the planned & forced maintenance adventure. (OEM parts lists inside)

[J.Belknap]

Getting ready to do some major preventative maintenance work. The attached spreadsheet that I am using covers parts included in:

VANOS
timing chain tensioning
liftgate noises
valve cover oil leaks
spark plugs
O2 sensors
power steering system
coolant system
oil separator system
a/c system
suspension
driveline

and more. Heck, there's a TON of 4.6iS and some compatible 4.4 info in there.

If it helps you out, great.

edit: and if you're interested in how my DIY 100k service went, scroll down for info and pics.

[c4racer]

Originally Posted by J.Belknap

Getting ready to do some major preventative maintenance work. Spreadsheet that I am using covers parts included in:

VANOS
chain tensioning
liftgate noises
valve cover oil leaks
valley pan leaks
spark plugs
O2 sensors
power steering
oil separator

and more.

If it helps you out, great.

Good info - thanks for sharing.

Curious why you are doing something on the chain tensioners. Are they making noise?

[X5 Meister]

You're not too far from building a whole 2nd car.

[Repoman]

I haven't even reached 65K and I'm not too far from building a whole 2nd car.

There's a fine line between preventative maintenance and "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

[CharlieHustleX5]

I'm less than 900 miles away from the big 100K....seems like EVERYTHING is finally showing its age. Cant complain too much since its been good to me for the most part. But this will be the right up there in cost with my inspection II total cost. I can only imagine what the dealer would kill me for out here in my area...Considering the lady at the parts counter wanted to charge me $23.68 for a replacement drain plug on the bottom of the radiator.

[J.Belknap]

Bumping thread, as I replaced the attached file with the most updated version. Sorry to reply so late to you guys, I forgot about this thread. Better late than never!

Originally Posted by c4racer

Good info - thanks for sharing.

Curious why you are doing something on the chain tensioners. Are they making noise?

As I was already replacing the vanos parts and cover gaskets I figure while I was in there, the old plastic parts in the timing system could be replaced.

Originally Posted by X5 Meister

You're not too far from building a whole 2nd car.

Purchased at $27K and about ~$10K into it with refreshing and add-on parts. Thankfully the first owner took the hit on the pricey add-ons.

Originally Posted by Repoman

I haven't even reached 65K and I'm not too far from building a whole 2nd car.

There's a fine line between preventative maintenance and "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"

I agree, although my rationale with this refresh was that there is a ton of overlapping labor.

Originally Posted by CharlieHustleX5

I'm less than 900 miles away from the big 100K....seems like EVERYTHING is finally showing its age. Cant complain too much since its been good to me for the most part. But this will be the right up there in cost with my inspection II total cost. I can only imagine what the dealer would kill me for out here in my area...Considering the lady at the parts counter wanted to charge me $23.68 for a replacement drain plug on the bottom of the radiator.

Yikes... I think that the dealer's labor bill would at least double my costs. 99% of parts were sourced from Tischer BMW as they have the best pricing that I've found so far.

Here are some pictures if anyone is interested!





Magnesium valve covers needed a powdercoat of primer, before the metallic silver and clear was applied. Non primered magnesium doesn't hold coatings well I hear. The undersides of the valve covers were blasted to bare magnesium and left that way. The sealing surface was decked and sanded to a more level/finer finish.











Thanks Vortech / FedEx for smashing my pulley..... there goes another $65.

[J.Belknap]

Here's a link to a short video of a test-fire without maf/hoses/vac lines/egr/etc to check a few things.

It sounds like a bass-boat without the egr pipes installed. :p

BMW X5 :: timingchecktestfire.mp4 video by jrbelknap - Photobucket

[J.Belknap]

It runs.

All good for the first 24 hours. Dry as a bone underneath the truck. Had an issue with the first "hot start" the next day, when I turned the key, it immediately threw a MAF and a TPS code and went into engine failsafe mode. I cleared the codes with a Matco MD9001 Quickscan tool. Turned the key again and all was back to normal. Thinking I had some slight MAF cleaner film burning off of the MAF as it was the first time it got heatsoaked after the build. Maybe one of the pros here could speculate on why that happened?

Anyhow, I updated my spreadsheet (in the first post) again for you guys, I hope it helps to have an example of what exactly was replaced at 100K on an E53, (at least, in my instance). It was nice to just be able to CLEAN everything while it was apart. Don't ask me how many rolls of shop towels or bottles of degreaser/brake cleaner I went through. 20+ easily. Thanks stupid old leaking S/C oil drain hose.

I haven't put the truck under heavy load yet. It had half a tank of 5 month old gas, I added a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner and topped of the tank with fresh 93. After I burn through this tank, I'm going to follow the Dinan "black box" tweaking procedure to verify a certain airflow voltage level, just to be safe. Dinan says upgrading to the Vortech Si-Trim impeller (Much more efficient operation, and 12% more air) doesn't require additional fueling.

Differences between the S-trim and Si-Trim supercharger impeller wheel can be found in this thread: http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...e-good-go.html

Initial impressions under light load.... this thing seems to require absolutely NO throttle to get up to the speed of highway traffic. VERY responsive. The effects of fresh plugs/O2's/blower shaft bearing/impeller & etc. is making itself known. The truck WANTS to FLY. I can only imagine, but I have to finish burning through this gas first. I'm thinking this impeller blade might not make a ton more peak power, but it makes a BIT more under the curve.

I might be bench racing, but I'm thinking that as it sits now, it should (slowly) nudge out a X5/6 50i in straight line acceleration. I'll still be a small spot in the rearview of an X5M and X6M though. Someone is always faster.

DynoJet 424xLC numbers to come soon..........

but for now.... happy pics! 100k service/refresh/restore, done.

Time to CLEAN!!! The cars are like, "sup bro, long time no see".



Engine: I know, the replacement Dinan vac hose is blue. But, (and more importantly) it's rated for oil/fuel/anything. Heavy duty stuff I sourced from Norfolk, VA's industrial section of town. (I'm not really one for car shows anyhow, haha)











All tucked away in it's home again.

[J.Belknap]

P.S. - one of my really tough points was installing the new S/C belt. Here's a quote from one of my e-mail conversations with an engineer at Dinan.

Napa p/n 25-060594 (type K, 6-rib, 59.4” long). But there is a tolerance for the belt length from the manufacturer. This kit, like many of our supercharger kits, is very particular about the belt length. If the belt is too short, it will be impossible to put on (and the technician could bend the tensioner during the attempt, which I think was a problem you had). If the belt is too long, then the two opposing sides could touch each other (near the tensioner pulley) after the belt stretches with use. For your kit, using a proper belt gauge, a new belt must measure between 1505-1515 mm long in order to work well. You can certainly try a local source for the belt and see how it goes. Or you buy a D862-6324 from us ($55), which is a belt that we’ve checked and know to be the proper length.

After this conversation, I ordered a belt from Dinan. It was TIGHT. You have to follow their installation instructions EXACTLY. The belt will not go on any other way. If anyone wants me to e-mail them a .pdf of the install directions, just let me know where to send them. Reference step # 179 on page 28.

Then, on the first start, the belt will look like it wants to ride right off of the front of the tensioner pulley (the tensioner pulley is crowned, and designed with torque deflection in mind). After the belt gets it's initial stretch, it will ride normal on the tensioner pulley. In the meantime, don't drive under high load/rpms, as it could fling the brand new belt right off.

[J.Belknap]

Burned the 24.6gal tank of half old fuel, half new fuel, and the splash of Techron. And with a mix of 75% city / 25% highway driving (at light-mid load/rpm) it only took 267 miles. Take that, Prius drivers!! What little mpg I *might* have gained in the refresh (plugs/O2's), I must have lost in the larger mass of the 10.5" wheels and 315mm tires in the front. City driving with a lead foot will have this thing in single digit gas mileage land.

Full tank of fresh gas. Now I have to sit and wait out the huge rainstorm that is about to hit Virginia Beach. Saturday when the roads are dry I have to make a few third gear pulls as per the tuning section of the Dinan manual. (That section is attached as a .pdf to this post if anyone should need it in the future.)

If it's all kosher after the pulls, I'll head to the DynoJet 424xLC, unplug the brake fluid level sensor, and spin the rollers around for a little bit. I'm more curious about the WBO2 reading than I am the power. (crap, just remembered I still have to weld a bung before a cat converter for the test.)

p.s. - about running 315's all around. If you're considering it, be less aggressive in the rain, it will begin to hydroplane sooner.