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  #131  
Old 09-12-2013, 05:25 PM
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Marketing turns trash to cash.

I have pure ZF fluid & filter kit as I am not willing to play transmission roulette.
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  #132  
Old 09-13-2013, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hayaku View Post
here's another tip:

you may want to remove the drain plug first. while the oil is draining from there, you can remove the fill plug to allow air into the pan to help the oil drain instead of creating a vacuum and holding it up. that way there won't be so much oil spilling out from the fill plug.
Actually you should first loosen the fill plug to make sure you can remove it. Nothing worse then draining all the fluid in the trans and finding out that you can't remove the fill plug because it is rusted in the trans or some PO mangled the fill plug in an attempt to open it without the right tool.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mgbmwx5 View Post
This is the recommended ATF oil for the ZF transmission: Mobil/ESSO ATF LT 71141, you will be taking a risk of failure with anything else. Read the entire thread.
He has an I6 engine, not a V8 so he doesn't have a ZF trans.
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Last edited by upallnight; 09-13-2013 at 07:53 AM.
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  #133  
Old 09-26-2013, 09:35 PM
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I have about 270 miles since my change with ZF filter & Lifeguard 5. Anyone have an estimate how many miles of flawless function until I can stop worrying?
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  #134  
Old 04-29-2014, 04:11 PM
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Folks, sorry to resurrect an already long thread but I sure could use some help and guidance. What I thought was going to be a simple automatic transmission fluid change project has turned into a huge source of confusion. I am getting all kinds of conflicting information on both proper fluid and procedure. My '05 3.0i transmission has a green sticker on the bottom which shows a lifetime fluid part # 83220024359. I called the dealer with the number and they said the correct fluid for my transmission is ATF Dextron VI, although they also mentioned the old part # had been superseded. I then called Bavauto to order the trans filter kit and asked if they sold the Dextron VI. They told me that Dextron VI was absolutely incorrect for my tranny and that I needed to use either the Esso/Texaco fluid or an equivalent such as Liqui Moly Top Tec 1200. To further add to the confusion, the website from another very well-known BMW parts/service provider I checked showed a Texaco ETL-7045E equivalent product for use in my tranny, but stated it was only specifically to be used with "yellow tag" transmissions. How do I know which is the right fluid?

Regarding the fluid change procedure, my understanding is that the fluid temp needs to be properly monitored during the change to insure that the proper amount of fluid is put in the transmission. How critical is this? Is it enough just to start the engine after filling, let it warm up some and shift through the gears, and then add fluid until it overflows from the fill plug?

Thanks for any help you can offer-
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  #135  
Old 04-29-2014, 04:12 PM
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Folks, sorry to resurrect an already long thread but I sure could use some help and guidance. What I thought was going to be a simple automatic transmission fluid change project has turned into a huge source of confusion. I am getting all kinds of conflicting information on both proper fluid and procedure. My '05 3.0i transmission has a green sticker on the bottom which shows a lifetime fluid part # 83220024359. I called the dealer with the number and they said the correct fluid for my transmission is ATF Dextron VI, although they also mentioned the old part # had been superseded. I then called Bavauto to order the trans filter kit and asked if they sold the Dextron VI. They told me that Dextron VI was absolutely incorrect for my tranny and that I needed to use either the Esso/Texaco fluid or an equivalent such as Liqui Moly Top Tec 1200. To further add to the confusion, the website from another very well-known BMW parts/service provider I checked showed a Texaco ETL-7045E equivalent product for use in my tranny, but stated it was only specifically to be used with "yellow tag" transmissions. How do I know which is the right fluid?

Regarding the fluid change procedure, my understanding is that the fluid temp needs to be properly monitored during the change to insure that the proper amount of fluid is put in the transmission. How critical is this? Is it enough just to start the engine after filling, let it warm up some and shift through the gears, and then add fluid until it overflows from the fill plug?

Finally, I know that for the transfer case adaptation values need to be reset after fluid change. Does the transmission also have adaptation values that need to be reset?

Thanks for any help you can offer-
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  #136  
Old 04-29-2014, 04:30 PM
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Fluid level is critical in your transmission. you have a ZF transmission, so any fluid that is the equivalent to the bmw pn #83220024359 will work. I used redline D4 in my 6HP26 ( ZF's 6 speed ). I dropped the pan, changed the filter, gasket and electrical connector ( sleeve ). bolted it back up and filled the pan with the car on level ground. put the fill plug back in and started it up. I kept pumping fluid into it until it started to weep. then shifted through the gears and kept pumping more in until it started to weep again. once it was up to temp, I capped it up and then turned it off.

then I put the big guy back on the ground and did the "reset" procedure with the key in run and held the go peddle down until I could hear the stepper motors actuating for the vanos ( that means it's re-initalizing all of the stuff )

let it finish and then drove it

I changed the fluid/fliter at 100k miles and plan on doing it again at 200k

hope this helped you out!
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  #137  
Old 04-29-2014, 05:10 PM
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The confusion is being compounded.

It is not a ZF transmission, it is a GM transmission. 3.0, not 4.4.

Renaissance Man, when I look up the green tag, I get the part number you list, the ETL7082B reference, and a note that it has been superceded by Dexron VI. So that is what I would use myself. Dexron VI is a backwards compatible fluid that covers the old Dexron III spec (which had an orange tag) among others.

The yellow tag is the ETL7045E fluid. So let's put that one aside right now.

These fluids are probably all variants of Dexron III IMO, and so will have similar specs, but they are trying to make sure that what you add to it is compatible with what is already in it. Since you can't buy the green tag fluid anymore, use the Dexron VI that the dealer recommends.

Aftermarket suppliers may try to upsell a generic fluid that isn't certified, but which claims to meet a number of specs. Sort of an adjustable wrench of the fluid world. I would use a fluid that meets the Dexron VI spec over a fluid that claims to be OK to use on a wide number of specs.

Level is important. Check the procedure.

There are no adaptations to reset.

Good luck

Jeff
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  #138  
Old 04-29-2014, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBlack48is View Post
Fluid level is critical in your transmission. you have a ZF transmission, so any fluid that is the equivalent to the bmw pn #83220024359 will work. I used redline D4 in my 6HP26 ( ZF's 6 speed ). I dropped the pan, changed the filter, gasket and electrical connector ( sleeve ). bolted it back up and filled the pan with the car on level ground. put the fill plug back in and started it up. I kept pumping fluid into it until it started to weep. then shifted through the gears and kept pumping more in until it started to weep again. once it was up to temp, I capped it up and then turned it off.

then I put the big guy back on the ground and did the "reset" procedure with the key in run and held the go peddle down until I could hear the stepper motors actuating for the vanos ( that means it's re-initalizing all of the stuff )

let it finish and then drove it

I changed the fluid/fliter at 100k miles and plan on doing it again at 200k

hope this helped you out!
Confusion seems to be what type of transmission is in your X. RenaissanceMan has a 2005 X5 with a 3.0 (I6) engine, not a 4.4,4.6, or 4.8 V8 so he has the GM trans not the ZF trans.

http://www.xoutpost.com/884253-post9.html
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  #139  
Old 04-29-2014, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCL View Post
The confusion is being compounded.

It is not a ZF transmission, it is a GM transmission. 3.0, not 4.4.

Renaissance Man, when I look up the green tag, I get the part number you list, the ETL7082B reference, and a note that it has been superceded by Dexron VI. So that is what I would use myself. Dexron VI is a backwards compatible fluid that covers the old Dexron III spec (which had an orange tag) among others.

The yellow tag is the ETL7045E fluid. So let's put that one aside right now.

These fluids are probably all variants of Dexron III IMO, and so will have similar specs, but they are trying to make sure that what you add to it is compatible with what is already in it. Since you can't buy the green tag fluid anymore, use the Dexron VI that the dealer recommends.

Aftermarket suppliers may try to upsell a generic fluid that isn't certified, but which claims to meet a number of specs. Sort of an adjustable wrench of the fluid world. I would use a fluid that meets the Dexron VI spec over a fluid that claims to be OK to use on a wide number of specs.

Level is important. Check the procedure.

There are no adaptations to reset.

Good luck

Jeff
Thanks so much for the replies. This information is MOST helpful, and helps to clear up the confusion regarding tag colors, etc. So, it sounds like as long as I go with a quality Dextron VI spec fluid, I'll be ok. The dealer didn't give me any brand info on the Dextron VI they sell, so I'm hoping that going with something like this or a Valvoline/Mobil 1 will be ok:

Your Parts Search Returned 1 Part(s)

One last question - In measuring warmup temp for ensuring proper fluid level is it necessary to use something like an infrared thermometer or digital thermometer or is it enough to base it on a rough amount of warmup time?
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  #140  
Old 04-29-2014, 07:39 PM
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The reason why the temperature is so important is because ATF expands with heat, so the hotter the fluid is, the more it has expanded. Don't make the mistake of draining a hot trans because unlike an engine only 60% of the fluid is in the pan. The rest of the fluid is in the Torque converter and if the fluid in the torque converter is hot it will upset the actual amount that you put back into the trans.

I would drain the fluid from the pan and let the car sit over night. Next morning I would pump ATF into the trans until it come out the fill hole. Put the plug back into the fill hole and start the engine. Go through all the gears and pause in each gear with the engine running and put it in neutral, remove the fill plug and with the engine still running pump ATF into the trans until it starts to come out the fill hole. Put the plug back in and call it a day.
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