lets talk rear suspension.

[theblue]

So now that I've cleaned up the front of my X5 it's apparent that there is a good bit of clunking from the back.

What I want to know is: what are the most common failure items that I should look into replacing. I've done a quick visual check and all I can really see that is bad looking is one of the subframe mounts. So what in the back tends to fail often that I should consider replacing if I don't feel like just replacing EVERYTHING.

[ECS Tuning]

The rear ball joints (LINK) and wishbones (LINK) are two of your common wear and tear areas on the rear of the X5. I'd start with those along with getting the sub frame mounts repaired.

[Ricky Bobby]

From what I can tell besides the rear subframe bushings, I would replace the Wishbones, Guide links, integral links, and ball joints, I prefer to take care of the major items at once so as you're not unbolting the suspension twice.

For subframe bushings, make sure you go with Meyle HD (same quality as the thrust arm replacements)

[epdarks]

I will be overhauling the rear soon too, I have a list of part numbers at home on my iPad I can post later.

The only part that hasn't been mentioned are sway bar bushings.

[davintosh]

Ricky Bobby hit the big ones. Here are the part numbers we're talking about.
2 Ball joint 33326767748
2 INTEGRAL LINK 33326770749
2 Guiding suspension link 33326774796
1 Wishbone, left 33326770859
1 Wishbone, right 33326770860

I've been targeting the same stuff & have found several threads about those items (and started one or two myself); http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...hing-tool.html
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...all-joint.html
http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...tempt-2-a.html

[katit]

Very timely post. I can tell that pressed in bushings in my X5 already bad. I tend to do "all at once" and this thread very helpful.

Does anybody know answers to following?

1. At about what mileage we can consider suspension "shot"? My car has 112k miles right now
2. Is OE is a way to go or there is specific brands that will last as long? I need another 100k out of this car
3. When I brouse realoem - there is "Value line" parts and they sold in kits. "Value" sounds like "cheap and bad" Am I wrong on this one?
4. What about shocks? They not leaking but I feel like it's time to get new ones.. Is Bilstein HD's is the way to go?

I was thinking about leaving subframe bushings alone. In my E39 they original at 220k.. Is it a weak spot in E53?

[epdarks]

katit,

At 100k miles, you are due for a suspension inspection at minimum. My guess is you will find items to replace.

In my opinion, OEM or a high quality aftermarket... don't go for the "value" line. Any indy shop will likely tell you the same thing.

Shocks... Billy HD or OEM seems to be the most popular.

Have the subframe bushings looked at by an indy if possible. They are a $1200 job if you are paying them to do it, I made a few calls on those today.

[katit]

I do all the work myself, so I save there already. And I'd rather replace as much as I can even if it's a little overkill just to make sure it's good to go for a while.

[epdarks]

I'm with you, but do you really feel like doing a 10 hour subframe job if it is not necessary?

When I read the DIY on the forum, X5girl makes it look like a breeze.

When I talked to the tech at my indy he said it's a nightmare of a job. 6 hours for his techs, and 10 for a rookie.

[davintosh]

The nice thing about the subframe bushing job is that it can be done on the car, and each corner can be done in turn. I don't think worn subframe bushings are necessarily a safety concern, so driving it with the clunking is more a nuisance than anything.

I spent last Saturday afternoon replacing the front-right bushing on mine (which destroyed my home-built puller) and will tackle the rest once the puller I ordered arrives, and I'm betting the rest of the job will go much more quickly than that first bushing. I've heard the $1200 quote as well, and just can't justify paying that much when I can do it on my own. Some might balk at the opportunity cost of a 10-hour DIY job like that, but I don't mind it at all. I'd rather spend the money on the parts and the right tools, then know the job is done right.

FWIW, I'll make the puller tool available for rent when I'm done with the job. PM me for details.