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  #11  
Old 02-06-2014, 12:11 PM
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thank you for the well-wishes...


as far as the battery disconnect - it might work, it might not... it assumed that the battery disconnet resets the modules to their initial state (some modules have EEPROMs, some have EPROMs, some have who knows what...) when you disconnect the battery, make sure that the car is asleep, so make the "break" after 20 minutes after the last activity - have trunk opened, and everything ready for disconnect and wait for 20 minutes and then disconnect... once disconnected, short the (+) and (-) cables together (with battery COMPLETELY disconnected!!), this supposedly will remove any static charge that may remain in the system's capacitors and coils...

I don't think it will help, but it should not hurt (unless you will start playing connect-disconnect-connect-disconnect game!!)

It seems that the driver's side has some issues...

the issues can be with the LCM, where the "power" leg of the MOSFET transistor is acting up, as the transistor is on its way out... this problem is repairable on the bench level, when the LCM is popped open and the faulty transistor is replaced with a new one... requires soldering skills and some knowledge of electronics. Good solution, as your original LCM goes back into the car, no coding needed.

the issue could be with frailing wiring from the LCM to the ballast, where the wires are intermittently shorting to the ground, and the LCM cuts off the power to the wires to prevent further damage (to prevent the damage to MOSFET transistor)

the issue could be with aging ballast that draws higher (or lower) amperage from the LCM, and the LCM is trying to compensate for the loss (gain) by changing the output, and further damaging the ballast...

it is a good idea to read the error codes from the LCM to see if you get any "line open to POWERMOS" statement - that means that the transistor burned... or, you could get something else as an error...
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  #12  
Old 02-06-2014, 11:57 PM
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Thanks for the pointers.

As a kid, I grew up building Heath Kits, so I'm actually more at ease with a soldering iron, than a torque wrench.
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  #13  
Old 03-29-2014, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TerminatorX5 View Post

the issues can be with the LCM, where the "power" leg of the MOSFET transistor is acting up, as the transistor is on its way out... this problem is repairable on the bench level, when the LCM is popped open and the faulty transistor is replaced with a new one... requires soldering skills and some knowledge of electronics. Good solution, as your original LCM goes back into the car, no coding needed.
It's looking like the LCM might be the issue. Any chance you have a part # (or even better a source where I can purchase) the MOSFET transistor?

Thx
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  #14  
Old 03-29-2014, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E53inLA View Post
It's looking like the LCM might be the issue. Any chance you have a part # (or even better a source where I can purchase) the MOSFET transistor?

Thx
I don't have the info on the E53 LCM, but below is something for the E39, from bmwpost.ru, a russian site...

the wording on the picture is in russian

ПРАВ. ДАЛЬНИЙ - RIGHT HIGHBEAM
ЛЕВ. ДАЛЬНИЙ - LEFT HIGHBEAM
ЛЕВ. БЛИЖНИЙ - LEFT LOWBEAM
ПРАВ. БЛИЖНИЙ - RIGHT LOWBEAM

the for MOFSETs pictured are the equivalents for the replacement - there might be some other ones that meet the datasheets for these 4...

if you decide to "dry-test" the repair with the cover open, make sure you do not short anything inside (use piece of paper to protect open circuits) and do it for very-very short time - the MOFSETs produce a lot of heat, and without the heatsink they may burn out, or burn your hands...
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  #15  
Old 03-29-2014, 03:09 PM
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for the parts i usually use Digi-key, partonline.com and ebay...

the internals of the LCMs can be different, due to different generation units, different car models... use the info at your own risk...

here is another picture from the same website:

1. right brake and left rear fog
2. left front fog
3. rear parking lights (inner)
4. right lowbeam
5. reverse lights
6. interior lights
7. parking lights, right rear and left front
8. righ front fog
9. left brake and right rear fog
10. parking lights, rear left and front right
11. left lowbeam
12. license plate lights, both (in the E53 actually each one runs individually)
13. turn signals, front right, side right, rear left
14. right highbeam
15. top-mounted stop light
16. turn signals, front left, side left, rear right
17. left highbeam
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  #16  
Old 03-30-2014, 01:52 PM
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Thanks TX5! Appreciate the info.

Meanwhile, I'm poking around eBay and see this ad

BMW E38 E39 Lighting Control Module LCM II Repair Service | eBay

I figured $55 and not having to mess around with repairing the part was a good deal, however...

So I sent them a message, and they say they don't fix the LCM on E53, just E39/E39. They told me to send the part number as they stock LCMs. I found the LCM (I think) and part number is 61356961140
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  #17  
Old 03-30-2014, 02:07 PM
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you are welcome

how far are these folks from you? you are already in CA, so you are much closer to them, than, say I am... lol...

The main principle of the LCM is still the same, it uses the MOSFETs to control the lights... but different LCMs would have different EEPROMs for the controlling codes, and might have different hardware, like instead of a single light MOSFET, they might have dual or triple light control... so, it would boil down to figuring out which MOSFET controls what...

There were like two dozens of the LCM part number during the production run of the E36, E38, E39, E46, E32, E53, that span from 95 to 2007 in some X3s and Zs...

Pop your LCM open, and see what you got inside... just try not to drive the car when the LCM is out - if the mileage inside the LCM and the cluster will differ by more than 200 kms (or, is it miles?), you will get mileage tamper dot...
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  #18  
Old 03-30-2014, 02:21 PM
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I'm by UCLA, and they're in Long Beach. About 30 miles. Less than an hour if the 405 deity is favorable. I contacted them as the ad says

*** Local Repairs & Installations available in Southern California! Please email with any questions ***

So if they are in my area one day, that makes my life easy. I'm short on time today, and a little concerned I may get the LCM out, but not back in! Seems like a lot of wires in and around the LCM.
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  #19  
Old 03-30-2014, 03:52 PM
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Since both headlights worked fine at one point I would be focusing on being sure it is not a problem with the driver's side connector, the wires or any associated ground. I can't recall the last time I had an electrical issue such as yours that was other than above.

Or I would go back to when both worked and exchange the bulbs and see what happens.
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  #20  
Old 04-09-2014, 11:12 AM
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Have some good news to report. Both Xenon headlights now working.

The mechanic who I think is very good.... well my Spanish is non-existent, and his English is marginally better than my Spanish.

He suspected the LCM was faulty, and was checking the wiring. He says when he removed the LCM, the connector had water in it. When he cleaned out the water, the headlight worked normally.

As to the source of the water? He says it's the moulding at the top of the windshield, which is in terrible condition. I ordered a new one for $29.50 from Pelican Parts.
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