All in - pulling the 4.6 engine and trans to fix oil leaks once and for all

[stunt]

So I pretty much decided to remove the engine and transmission as a single unit. So I got the upper radiator support removed.



Can you guess what website is pulled up on the computer screen in the background?



Only problem is that I'm not having much luck getting the power steering coolant lines to disconnect. I wonder if anyone local have the proper tool to release these clips? I used 2 pair of pliers to pull the release ring in, but I don't have any leverage to then pull the hose from the fitting.



The fuel line uses the same fitting, but is smaller and I lucked out and was able to release it using the same method.

EDIT. Looks like this is what I need. (Image from bav auto web site)



I also ordered this last night:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330606867879...S:3160&vxp=mtr

[racingbmwm3]

those fittings can be PITA sometimes. you should be able to remove them by hand without tools though. It helps to push the hose further onto the fitting, then squeeze the clip, then pull the hose off. If you try pulling at the same time as squeezing it doesn't want to work. Pushing it on more is the key. Try not to use a bunch of force when pushing pulling the hose as that can just bang up the locking clip thing and make it worse. The special tool helps, you still need to push then pull though. Maybe give it a little twist as well?

[stunt]

Well that upper fitting didn't want to go. The plastic clip just came apart, maybe from me trying to force it off yesterday. I did push the hose in first, then push in the clip and then try to remove it. I think I must have messed up the little metal tabs inside.

The bottom one came off pretty easy. So I ended up cutting the upper one once the plastic clip had disintegrated. So that's another $40 to add to my parts list. At least the upper hose is the short one (vs. the $120 long lower one!) Will probably need to cut off the metal housing with a dremel tool in the hopes of being able to save the power steering cooler.



Anyway, after that ordeal, the entire front of the engine is now exposed. Here are some shots at this oily mess of an engine.







Looks like the water cooled alternator was replaced at some point. I suppose that is good news, maybe? I had to wipe off a layer of oil and dirt before even realizing there was a label on it at all.



Removed the heat shields around the transmission



Next it was time to remove the front axles



I was surprised to find this spacer. Don't think I'll be putting it back on unless those are factory on the 4.6?



Pads and rotors are in real good shape. There was no groove at all on the rotors, so the pads slipped right off.



Removing tie outer tie-rod. Tension strut came off using the same tool.



For the control arm, I had to step up to a larger puller.



Inner CV joint Looks to have been packed well when serviced last.



I take it these clips are not reusable? Is there a special tool to be used to "crimp" them on when replacing them?



Driver side front axle removed



Steering knuckle re-attached loosely. I'll need to put the front wheels back on to roll the truck back when it comes time to pull the engine.



It doesn't look like the inner CV housing is going to clear the frame (the other side looks even worse). I wonder what it will take to remove those?



That's all I got done today as I wasn't able to start until around 4pm due to other obligations, which I also have tomorrow unfortunately, but I hope to at least be able to pull out the other front axle tomorrow.

Oh, on the valve covers, I had them powder coated when I did the gaskets last year.

[Ricky Bobby]

I got a lot of observations but the first to my attention is that your inner cv joint has the wrong grease in it. It should be yellow runny looking tripod joint grease not the black moly grease you show. That's not an original inner joint or has had a new boot before

[RFaber]

Looks like a lot of fun! keep us posted on what you find!
oh, if i recall , doesnt the CV axle slip out of the front diff completely? it looks as though you have a part left behind! *the part that wont clear the frame*!!
subscribed

[stunt]

Here's what the Bentley states about front axle removal. So yes, it looks like the outer housing of the inner CV joint should slip off the diff.

In my case, the axle piece slipped out of the housing effortlessly, there was nothing at all holding it back. Will be interesting to see if the other side is the same way. I know the previous owner did mentioned he had just had extensive front end work done at an indy shop. Maybe I should try to track down which one and get a complete service record.



I probably should have marked the relationship between the axle and inner joint before pulling it out.

[e30cabrio]

I had fun r&ring my passenger side axle on my back in my garage. It comes out with a pry bar without much fuss, getting it back in all the way was harder. I ended up putting the hub assay back on it & using it for leverage. Took me 2 days to think of that.

[Giznaz]

Doesn't the engine/transmission/front axle just unbolt from the body, and drop as a unit?

That is how they go together, they call it the "marriage" when they slip it into the body.

Wouldn't that separation be easier than the disassembly you are doing?

[bcredliner]

4.6 does not come with spacers.

I added 18mm spacers to fill the wheels better and as part of aftermarket handling improvements I made. No issues because of the spacers. Did have to get it aligned. Depending on where you buy tires some stores will not touch a vehicle with spacers that are not bolted to the rotor (as pictured) and don't have longer lug bolts.

[stunt]

I might get some longer bolts and keep the spacers. It does give it a more aggressive stance. I ran them on my M5 (with longer bolts) and it was also lowered.

I suppose I could have dropped the front sub-frame, but I would still have had to separate the struts from the steering knuckles, or released the strut tops from the fenders, and I'm sure that would have been a lot of alignment issues to deal with.

Thanks for the tip on prying out the inner CV joint outer shell. Worked like a champ.



I'll clean out all the old grease and repack with the correct stuff.