rear brake pipe

[w3it]

Hi
I need to replace my two rear brake pipes and I have read through a few threads but not come across a definitive step by step process to do this. Any suggestions?

These are the pipes (no 6 and 7):
RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 4.4i Rear brake pipe DSC

Any help appreciated.

Thanks

[Clockwork]

nope.
you may be a pioneer here.

[JCL]

It's been written up a few times. Here is one thread:

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...es-anyone.html

It is a straightforward procedure to replace a corroded brake line. It is exactly the same as doing it on any other vehicle. Check all the lines, because the corrosion will be where salt and road debris was trapped, but if they are corroded in one location then all of them are suspect. You need to have cutting and flaring tools, replacement lines and hardware, and an ability to bleed the system afterwards.

If anybody requires a detailed step by step procedure then it may be better to have a professional do it. Brakes are a safety system.

[Clockwork]

I stand corrected. Never heard of the issue before, thank god.

[JCL]

It isn't a BMW issue, or an E53 issue. It is an issue for any vehicle driven on roads that get salt applied, and where the road debris can collect around the lines, holding moisture in.

[upallnight]

Whatever you do don't go with the cheap repair of splicing in a new brake line with compression fittings. You need to go with double flare fittings.

[w3it]

I've actually ordered the replacements from BMW. They come the correct length and with fittings. Good idea? Have to bend them to shape though... guess you can't have everything :-)

[w3it]

JCL, thanks for your input. I found that thread and others. What worried me was a comment about the ABS unit and that if air gets in then only a special machine at BMW can repair that. So I wondered if there was a "How to" that gave instructions relevant to the X5 workings and prevent any problems.

[JCL]

If you are familiar with bleeding brakes you may be fine. Go slowly and carefully. If you draw air into the circuit by letting the master cylinder get too low the air can get trapped in the ABS controller. There are dead ends, valves, and actuators there. If air does get in there you need to use the BMW service computer to cycle the ABS valves while bleeding. It can be frustrating, and a challenge. Good luck.

[bcredliner]

You will need a flare nut wrench and a good penetrating oil to remove the old lines. I suggest purchasing a pressure bleeder. Much easier to bleed the brakes and much less likely to let the master cylinder get too low. If the brake fluid has not been changed in two years or more it is a good time to do so. I like to use a different color fluid so I can tell when the lines have been thoroughly flushed.