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#1
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Battery or Alternator?
Background: replaced the battery and alternator at BMW dealer back in March 2012. Current: Left inside light on for 2 days and came to open the car - everything completely dead !! Trickle charged it overnight, and during this charge could see the car coming back to life slowly (opening doors activates inside lights etc). In the morning, after a good 10 hr trickle charge, started car and got the usual warning lights on the display - these cleared immediately with right/left steering lock. Anyhow, now thinking car is ok I unhooked the trickle charger and let it sit for the day. Came to the car in the evening and it started fine. But, when I switched on my aftermarket HID fog-lights the hazard lights started flashing and inside light came on - car still running as normal and no warning lights on the dash at all (I have had these HID fog lights for 2 years now with no problems). I unlocked the OBC to check the voltage - Car not started voltage is a steady 12.5V, upon starting car dips to 9V (ish) and then gradually climbs to maintain 13.5V. So I put on the fog lights and Voltage dropped to 12.4V then climbed back to 13.5V - at this point hazard lights flashed and inside light came on (simple fix was to turn off hazards and inside lights and continue driving as normal). No additional warning lights on the display - drives perfectly ok. So - would you guys put this down to the battery being no good as it was totally drained (have not checked the physical battery condition yet), or could it be something else? how long should I need to trickle charge it for it to be 'healthy' again? On a side note...the bloody coolant started leaking. Was thinking of selling the X recently but going to have to spend $$$$ on it repairing stuff so gonna keep it. Just put on 2 new rear tyres and replaced control arm bushes - sly thing has its own way of staying with the family . Thanks for any help received. |
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#2
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Trickle charger is good for maintaining the battery charge (in short the battery must have at least 50% juice).
Battery at 0% juice, you a need fast / smart battery full charger. In order for you to load test your vehicle, please make sure you have a fully charged battery(done correctly). If your vehicle starts up, you are half way there. Turn everything on (lights, AC, radio and etc ) ... Increase your RPM... Check the voltage if you are under, within or over the specs. ( some vehicles are known for under or over charging) You won't get far with a bad alternator. Voltage issue equates to Christmas tree lights in your dashboard ( SES, battery, 4x4, tranny msg, and etc) Good luck!
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Build Date: 06/2004 2004 E53 3.0L 6 Cyl Engine Code: M54 AT: 5L40-E/GM5 (A5S 390R) http://s101.photobucket.com/user/lho...in/library/E53 2004 E46 M3 Coupe 3.2L 6 Cyl Engine Code: S54 MT: S6S 420G - 6 speed http://s101.photobucket.com/user/lho...in/library/E46 ---------------------------------- Build Date: 10/2008 2009 E90N 328xi Sedan 6 Cyl Engine code: N51 AT: GA6L45R/GM6 http://s101.photobucket.com/user/lho...in/library/E90 |
#3
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For charging I am borrowing a friends 10 yr old charger. Im no expert but it has 2 charge settings (im on the lowest setting) and the charger display is showing 3A.
What specs do you refer to when testing full load? Could it really be the alternator even though I only replaced it 2.5yrs ago at the dealer? |
#4
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Also how can I tell the battery is fully charged before load testing?
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#5
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Mine is ~14.1max when vehicle is running.
And ~12.6 when vehicle is off and trickle charged. Clear existing codes. After you started your vehicle your voltage should be 13.5 to 14.4max, if it is under charging with all the options turned on, try to increase your RPM, check again. This is just one of many voltage charging issue, it could be any of the following: - system glitch - loose serpentine belt - bad pulleys or tensioner - alternator voltage regulator - rmfd alternator with BMW logo but made in Mexico or worst China Edit: adding - 90amp versus 120amp versus 140amp alternator ( did you checked or recorded your orig alternator specs before the dealership replaced it?) Also, if it is under warranty ( 2 yrs parts and workmanship ) so why stress over this, just have the dealership do the diagnostics My x5 has the cold climate option, with a 140amp valeo to power the heated seats and related accessories
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Build Date: 06/2004 2004 E53 3.0L 6 Cyl Engine Code: M54 AT: 5L40-E/GM5 (A5S 390R) http://s101.photobucket.com/user/lho...in/library/E53 2004 E46 M3 Coupe 3.2L 6 Cyl Engine Code: S54 MT: S6S 420G - 6 speed http://s101.photobucket.com/user/lho...in/library/E46 ---------------------------------- Build Date: 10/2008 2009 E90N 328xi Sedan 6 Cyl Engine code: N51 AT: GA6L45R/GM6 http://s101.photobucket.com/user/lho...in/library/E90 Last edited by lhordmclain; 08-19-2014 at 11:31 PM. |
#6
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Sounds like your battery is not fully/properly charged. It could be because of your charging procedure or the fact that it completely drained and is now bad.
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#7
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Warranty expired in March this year for the battery/alternator.
Will continue to charge battery and see how I get on. Going to load test shortly and will update soon. |
#8
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The problem with automotive battery is that: once it is discharged, it "weakens" the battery in terms of holding charge.
Bring it to the local parts store, they can check the battery, usually for free in the US. I don't know about the Middle East.
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1998 E39 528i 5sp MT 2006 E53 X5 3.0 6sp MT |
#9
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Ok so done a full load test just now.
Multimeter registered voltage which was +0.6V more than the OBC - I will state the OBC readings:- Car switched Off: 12.5V Car Idle: 13.5V Car with full load (AC, lights, radio, HID fogs etc) - 13.0V Increased revs to 2500-3000rpm under full load - 13.5V. In my original post I had stated that when I switched on HID fogs from Idle the hazards and internal lights randomly came on. This time I switched on HID fogs whilst revving to 2500rpm and no issues. None of the dash warning lights came on. so do we think it's weakened battery? Will be visiting dealer for coolant fix and control arm bushes replacement so will have them health check the battery - service manager is a friend so I know he wont BS me !! |
#10
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My personal opinion you are in good shape provided you keep monitoring your battery load two days after a full charge, to check if it still hold the charge.
Your alternator is ok. BUT if the "red battery light - dashboard" keeps turning on -> cha-ching (2x) - invest on new or RMFD parts + time (DIY) or fee-based labor. Keep us posted with your end solution. GL! Good luck
__________________
Build Date: 06/2004 2004 E53 3.0L 6 Cyl Engine Code: M54 AT: 5L40-E/GM5 (A5S 390R) http://s101.photobucket.com/user/lho...in/library/E53 2004 E46 M3 Coupe 3.2L 6 Cyl Engine Code: S54 MT: S6S 420G - 6 speed http://s101.photobucket.com/user/lho...in/library/E46 ---------------------------------- Build Date: 10/2008 2009 E90N 328xi Sedan 6 Cyl Engine code: N51 AT: GA6L45R/GM6 http://s101.photobucket.com/user/lho...in/library/E90 |
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