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X5 35d coolant bleeding after thermostat replacement?
So finally changed both main thermostat and transmission thermostat.And also cleaned the carbon out from the intake manifold and head intake ports as sgrice described in his DIY. Now engine temp stays 85~86 deg C while idling and 87~88 while driving even the ambient temp is just 7 deg and before it was staying 70~75 degrees!!! Now my question is about bleeding the air out of the cooling system.I think i put back approx same amount of coolant that i drained out before opening up the thermostat.So after finishing the job, i just filled the expansion tank with coolant and i ran the cabin fan at max high heat settings to start the aux water pump and then i started the engine and went for drive.I was watching coolant temp with bmwhat app and it stayed at around 56~57 degrees for first 7-8 mins of driving.My concern is that is it possible that in that period of time ,engine block and head was running dry? because coolant temp sensor was not hitting coolant and that's why it was showing just 56~57 deg until thermostat opened and coolant started to circulate and temp rose to 86~88 degrees.But even after the temp got stabilized and coolant started circulating, expansion tank didn't take much coolant.I would say just 100-200ml. Do you guys think if there is any chances of heat damage to the cylinder liners and head in first 8-9 mins of running due to air pocket in the system? |
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#2
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First of all, Congrats and Well Done! The intake manifold and swirl flaps look nice and clean. Obviously, the operating temp is improved. I expect you'll find a nice improvement in mpg as well.
I believe your are fine with the coolant. First of all, check out post # 17 in this link. It is a graph showing coolant temp over time, and it took 8-9 minutes before temps got up to the 80's. So that is right in line with your experience. Also, according to this link, the engine temperature sensor is in the engine block itself, not in one of the coolant hoses. I may not understand things correctly, but I have a hard time imagining how a potential air bubble around the thermostat/water pump would give false temperature readings from a sensor in the engine block. I suppose an air bubble in the engine block itself might give some erroneous readings, but I would think those would get flushed out quickly. From another perspective, if you had a radiator hose leak and all your fluid drained out (the "ultimate air bubble syndrome"), you'd still expect the engine temperature sensor to alert you to a high engine temperature. For what it's worth, I remember having to add another 100-200 ml of coolant after my first drive as well. Good job and enjoy the ride!
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Stephen 2010 e70 35d- now driven by son #2 2005 e53 3.0 - now driven by son #1 2021 G05 45e PHEV - now driven by me 2008 ML320 CDI - driven by wife |
#3
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Thanks a lot Sgrice for your explanation.Yes it make sense what you have explained.
Your DIY guide was quite helpful!!! Thanks again... |
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Also I would like to thank Zetatre (lpcapital) who brought this issue of bad thermostat and it's consequences on this and other forum.
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#5
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You've already thanked me!
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#6
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Found this venting procedure for coolant system.Might be useful for someone performing air bleeding after coolant drain.
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#7
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Thermostat replaced !!!!
Before I replace my thermostat I have temperature while driving on the highway between 71 and 73 and now after I replace my thermostat I have temperature between 91 and 93 ( now I know why my glow plugs fail and I have to replace all of them plus control unit ). Very easy do it yourself job !!!! Thank you all !!!
Last edited by koty; 11-18-2017 at 11:39 PM. |
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Hey Guys, can someone please confirm the above coolant bleeding procedure is still correct? I just replaced the thermostat and water pump and it's time to bleed. Want to make sure I get it right as i've now read 3 different ways to do it and bleeding coolant always gives me crazy anxiety lol.
1) turn on to accessory setting 2) turn heat on low fan setting 3) temp to high 4) add coolant until bobble reaches max mark 5) start engine with expansion cap off at idle for 2 minutes 6) adjust coolant as needed until at max 7) put expansion cap on and let car warm up to operating temp Thanks all!
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E70 / F30 / UZJ100 |
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That'll work.
You've read 3 different ways because there are different ways and usually people have their chosen favorite method. In addition to what you have above, between 5 and 6 I like to rev the engine a couple of times to persuade any little air bubbles to break free and move along towards the expansion tank. Then, last step 9 I suppose, go for a 20 minute drive, let engine cool, and top off.
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2005 X5 4.4i Build 04/05 Maintenance/Build Log Nav, Pano, Sport (Purchased 06/14 w/ 109,000 miles) (Sold 8/15 w/121,000 miles) 2006 X5 4.8is Build 11/05 Maintenance/Build Log Nav, DSP, Pano, Running Boards, OEM Tow Hitch, Cold Weather Pckg (Purchased 08/15 w/ 90,500 miles) 2010 X5 35d Build 02/10 Nav, HiFi, 6 DVD, Sports Pckg, Cold Weather Pckg, HUD, CAS, Running Boards, Leather Dash, PDC, Pano (Purchased 03/17 w/ 136,120 miles) |
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Quote:
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E70 / F30 / UZJ100 |
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