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#1
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error code p2457 on e70 diesel
It was until yesterday, at 101,500 km, the car showed up first time for the check engine light. I used my own OBD reader and found 2 errors: $7E8 and $7EC. My reader can't identify $7EC. For $7E8, it's code is p2457, which is exhaust gas recirculation cooling system performance. I googled this p2457, and only a few people talking about this in e90. So it seems this does not happen often yet in X5. Maybe just me having bad luck on this leaking EGR? Do I have to replace the entire EGR unit? Thanks |
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#2
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Sorry to say, but I think you have just joined the moderately long list of people with cracked EGR coolers. This link on bimmerfest covers the topic fairly well. In particular, post #34 has a picture that looks nearly identical to yours. The EGR coolers are prone to cracking at both the lower (aka "hot") junction where the exhaust gases first enter the EGR cooler, and then also at the upper (aka "cool") junction where the cooled exhaust gases bleed into the intake manifold via the EGR valve. I don't know the exact numbers, but it seems the upper/cool side more commonly cracks. There was a service bulletin where BMW added a bracket to attempt to better support the EGR cooler and decrease the potential for cracking. Not sure if you have had the service bulletin work done.
There have been a few comments about trying to weld the cracked EGR cooler, but most people recommend replacement. Kind of expensive if done by the dealer - lots of quotes in the $1500-2000 range. I believe the part is around $500. A post I made earlier (link is here) about thermostat replacement covers most of what needs to be done if you want to replace it yourself. Be sure to check out a posting by ninja zx11 (link is here) about the proper technique for tightening the EGR cooler bolts - incorrectly tightened bolts might put undue pressure on the EGR cooler with subsequent early failure of the new part. Not sure if you can get BMW to pay for this repair. You're beyond the usual warranty period, but you might qualify under a longer emission warranty period. I've heard people say the emissions warranty period lasts for 70,000 miles in the US, but I have no idea whether that is also true in Canada. Good luck.
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Stephen 2010 e70 35d- now driven by son #2 2005 e53 3.0 - now driven by son #1 2021 G05 45e PHEV - now driven by me 2008 ML320 CDI - driven by wife |
#3
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Scorpioy - Sorry I didn't realize it, but you made several comments on the thermostat thread, so you're obviously familiar with all that stuff.
Was the EGR cooler producing soot before or after you worked on the thermostat? I sure hope it was leaking before doing the work - otherwise the thermostat work with possible resultant misalignment of the EGR brackets/bolts might be part of the reason for the cracking. Of course, as noted, there are a bunch of stories of de novo cracked EGR coolers, so hard to know what the exact cause is/was.
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Stephen 2010 e70 35d- now driven by son #2 2005 e53 3.0 - now driven by son #1 2021 G05 45e PHEV - now driven by me 2008 ML320 CDI - driven by wife |
#4
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One other thought - what year was your 2009 manufactured? It appears that over the years there have been three different EGR coolers with three different part numbers for the US market e70 diesel. The first design (part # 11714729477) was only produced from 10/08 to 12/08 (and might have been used on your 2009 model year car). Then it was changed to part # 11717812513. And for the last year or two the part # is 11718576450. Hopefully the different design changes were made to reduce the incidence of cracking. So maybe you had the earliest (and maybe most failure prone) design? And maybe some consolation might be that you'll be putting in one less prone to failure.
Here is the reference on RealOem: 11717812513 exhaust cooler From:12/17/2008To:05/05/2014 (ENDED)Weight:1.820 kgPrice:$670.51 Superseded by: 11718576450 (07/01/2013 — ), Exchangeable retrospectively Supersedes: 11714729477 (10/27/2008 — 11/12/2008) Part 11717812513 was found on the following vehicles:I assume this would apply to your Canadian car as well, but not sure. Hope the info is helpful.
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Stephen 2010 e70 35d- now driven by son #2 2005 e53 3.0 - now driven by son #1 2021 G05 45e PHEV - now driven by me 2008 ML320 CDI - driven by wife |
#5
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Thanks sgrice for the useful links. Yes I replaced the thermostat in early this year and did the egr installation. I think I didn't follow exactly the same sequnce and thus its cracked a bit...
I guess I will need buy a new egr and will follow the spec next time. |
#6
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My car was manufactured in 2008.
Should I buy the latest version of egr instead of the first generation? Would different version of egr compatible? Thanks Quote:
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#7
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The ...450 is the current part. With a quick google search the cheapest place I found it is around $550. This link is one example. Interestingly, the prior version was only around $270, but given the potential for cracking I think I'd go with the newer version.
This link will tell you more than you probably want to know about EGR coolers. Interesting that (if I understand it all correctly) some of the revisions have to do with internal components, aiming to reducing condensates and subsequent corrosion. Perhaps this will also reduce carbon build up in the swirl valves/intake manifold, etc. Very interesting to me that some of the 35d's have at least moderate carbon build up (like mine - see this link), while others have minimal to none. Could a newer EGR cooler minimize carbon build up as well? Since I'm usually a glass half full kind of person, I'd keep telling myself that the upgraded part will not only be less prone to cracking, but is also less prone to developing carbon build up! BTW - here is another link about EGR cracking and attempts to get BMW warranty to pay for it. Good luck.
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Stephen 2010 e70 35d- now driven by son #2 2005 e53 3.0 - now driven by son #1 2021 G05 45e PHEV - now driven by me 2008 ML320 CDI - driven by wife |
#8
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They will not stop cracking. One of the reasons is that the US EGR coolers, unlike the Euro, have a bypass channel inside. When the very hot exhaust gas goes thru without being cooled the cooler housing will got even hotter. The heat cycling is what kills them, in my opinion.
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