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  #11  
Old 04-09-2016, 01:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
Do you have the software to reset the adaptions for the transfer case when you change the fluid?

What fluid are you going to use in the transfer case?
I don't, but a local German shop does by my work. I'll take it there on Monday.

And I'm using the expensive BMW transfer case fluid. TF 0870. FCP Euro seems to have the best price on it.
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  #12  
Old 04-09-2016, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Entropy View Post
I don't, but a local German shop does by my work. I'll take it there on Monday.

And I'm using the expensive BMW transfer case fluid. TF 0870. FCP Euro seems to have the best price on it.
Just wanted to make sure you were aware and prepared for the transfer case software issue when the fluid was changed and were also aware of the crazy fluid for the transfer case.

Sounds like you are in good shape. Hope things work out well. Give an update on your impression after the fluid is changed and if you feel any difference.
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  #13  
Old 04-09-2016, 08:38 AM
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1. N52K
2. -10F to 90F
3. Castrol Edge 0W40
4. Mann filter
5. 7-7,500 miles (annually)
6. no additives
7. Walmart -$25.xx/5qts
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  #14  
Old 04-10-2016, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
Just wanted to make sure you were aware and prepared for the transfer case software issue when the fluid was changed and were also aware of the crazy fluid for the transfer case.

Sounds like you are in good shape. Hope things work out well. Give an update on your impression after the fluid is changed and if you feel any difference.
I found this earlier post stating that nothing needs to be reset after TC fluid change. Apparently ATC700 no longer requires it.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...er-case-2.html
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  #15  
Old 04-11-2016, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
Just wanted to make sure you were aware and prepared for the transfer case software issue when the fluid was changed and were also aware of the crazy fluid for the transfer case.

Sounds like you are in good shape. Hope things work out well. Give an update on your impression after the fluid is changed and if you feel any difference.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanC View Post
I found this earlier post stating that nothing needs to be reset after TC fluid change. Apparently ATC700 no longer requires it.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...er-case-2.html
Well I did the transmission (2 pan drops, ZF pan/filter, Pentosin ATF1), t-case (BMW TF 0870), and differentials (Redline 75W110) this weekend. I had to make a couple 14mm hex tools to complete the job, but so far so good. Transmission definitely shifts smoother. The shop that did the mechatronic sleeve gasket before I owned the car refilled it with Redline D6... so I was anxious to get that out.

I am taking it in Wednesday to get the transfer case adaptations reset, as well as a transmission reprogram.

Long 14mm hex key for front differential. There is an oil-line that runs right in front of the fill plug, so a 14mm hex-key socket was too wide.


Shallow 14mm hex key for t-case drain plug (it's right behind the cross-member). This one is ugly because it used to be a bolt with a nut welded at the end (double 14mm hex... one end goes in plug, other end you can use a 14mm boxed end wrench). I had to weld on a wrench because I couldn't slip the boxed end wrench over the end... too close to the crossmember.

Last edited by Entropy; 04-11-2016 at 11:28 AM.
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  #16  
Old 04-11-2016, 12:54 PM
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Here's my 2 cents. I have been using synthetic oil over twenty yrs, racing motocross and auto cross. Synthetic oil is the best choice. Many will argue about Royal Purple and all the other premium brands are so much better. Keep this in mind. I own my X5, with the N55 engine. Free BMW 15000k oil changes don't work for me because I don't want to wait that long. My oil is changed every 7500 miles with Castrol euro oil and Mahle filter. Living in South Florida, engine temps are quite high, taking its toll on breaking down oil and coolant.
I was also told by a certified BMW mechanic that long intervals between oil changes cause VANOS issues, yet BMW won't talk about it. For that reason I won't wait every 15000 miles. If leasing, I wouldn't worry about it. Just remember to keep those awful riding runflast within BMW specs on lease return.
Again this is my opinion, by information provided to me by professionals.
Lastly I plan on keeping my X5 till it's at least 10 years old. The extra $100 per year is worth the cost. Oil does break down and 7500 miles is my max on all my cars, regardless of what is said. Some people will want to argue over this.
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  #17  
Old 04-11-2016, 12:56 PM
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I am sorry this was suppose to post on motor oil intervals.
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  #18  
Old 04-11-2016, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Badasblkbmwx5 View Post
Here's my 2 cents. I have been using synthetic oil over twenty yrs, racing motocross and auto cross. Synthetic oil is the best choice. Many will argue about Royal Purple and all the other premium brands are so much better. Keep this in mind. I own my X5, with the N55 engine. Free BMW 15000k oil changes don't work for me because I don't want to wait that long. My oil is changed every 7500 miles with Castrol euro oil and Mahle filter. Living in South Florida, engine temps are quite high, taking its toll on breaking down oil and coolant.
I was also told by a certified BMW mechanic that long intervals between oil changes cause VANOS issues, yet BMW won't talk about it. For that reason I won't wait every 15000 miles. If leasing, I wouldn't worry about it. Just remember to keep those awful riding runflast within BMW specs on lease return.
Again this is my opinion, by information provided to me by professionals.
Lastly I plan on keeping my X5 till it's at least 10 years old. The extra $100 per year is worth the cost. Oil does break down and 7500 miles is my max on all my cars, regardless of what is said. Some people will want to argue over this.
Agree 100%. BMW's maintenance schedule is designed to keep you in a new BMW.
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  #19  
Old 04-11-2016, 01:44 PM
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N62TU 4.8i with 110k miles

so cal coastal weather. temps range from high 30s to 90s

Rotella synthetic 5w-40

Mann or mahle oil filter

ALL factory recommended drain interval

don't need no stinking additives....until the valve seals go!



I've been using rotella for a long time. 4.4 X5 from 60k to 170k and now the 4.8 since end of free service.

no sludge. you have to make sure crank case is vented and oil separator not clogged so moisture has a chance to evaporate

this vehicle has plenty other things for me to worry about!
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  #20  
Old 04-11-2016, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Entropy View Post
Well I did the transmission (2 pan drops, ZF pan/filter, Pentosin ATF1), t-case (BMW TF 0870), and differentials (Redline 75W110) this weekend. I had to make a couple 14mm hex tools to complete the job, but so far so good.
Lol I'll post my improvisations once I complete the job. I was aware of the need for a stubby 14mm hex bit for the TC fill plug, so I knocked one out of a regular hex key socket. The long one for the front fill plug is news to me. I will see if I can stick the short bit into something and make it work that way. The 4.8i with the dynamic drive et al. will never make it easy it seems
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