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  #11  
Old 05-24-2012, 03:23 AM
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wiring:
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2012 X5 35i: Hitch installed; Coded;
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  #12  
Old 05-24-2012, 03:58 AM
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Thank you miamipanther for this detail and the awesome photos! I feel much better about wiring my prodigy brake controller.

So just to clarify... in the rear trunk, on the ride side, all i need to do is remove the "fuse panel cover (2)" per the BMW instructions above? Are you sure this will give me enough room to access that 4 pin connector so that i can cut that connector off and hardwire my prodigy? Also, does this "fuse panel cover" just come off easy without removing any screws or rivets or anything like that? that would be great!

honestly, i am not going to route all the wires through the vehicle trim, etc... i plan to just leave the brake controller in the trunk with a bunch of extra wire (like you mentioned about 18 ft) coiled up in the back with the controller. and when i'm towing (not very often) - i'll just grab the brake controller and bring it to the front of the car and leave it "loose" just for temporary use, not worrying about the wires just running through the cabin.

so i'm hoping the access to the panel in the trunk is easy, so that i can gain access to that 4 pin and do the wiring simply.

thanks again!
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  #13  
Old 05-24-2012, 04:25 AM
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Correct, you can just hand remove the fuse panel cover and the 4 pin adapter is there.

There may be safety concern to just put the P2 control in the rear trunk: There is manual break feature in the controller, it may be required by law this feature is accessable all the time.

Prodigy uses accelerometer to engage the breaks, the device need to be mounted as instructed.

You can read the votage on the controler while breaking, it's obvious whether it works or not. If you put it in the trunk, you may not know at all if it's malfunctioning.

I would highly suggest to do it in regular way.
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Last edited by miamipanther; 05-24-2012 at 10:41 AM.
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  #14  
Old 05-24-2012, 11:37 AM
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yes, i actually plan to bring the unit forward right next to me when i'm actually trailering. if i am not trailering then i was going to just leave the whole deal in the trunk, out of sight.

but... i may just end up routing it through and mounting it up. we'll see.
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  #15  
Old 05-24-2012, 04:40 PM
ard ard is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCL View Post
Presumably there were no existing holes or bolts that could be used to mount it on the trailer A-frame.
Yeah, but as we both know that would not "require" drilling holes... I can think of more that a few ways to attach it, and question the need to install it there.

It was presented as a "requirement" as in "unavoidable" and hence a rational for running wires up to the dash....

Miami- FANTASTIC post. Really fine effort. Thx

A
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  #16  
Old 02-28-2013, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miamipanther View Post
wiring:
Brilliant. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks again for your documentation.
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  #17  
Old 03-01-2013, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ard View Post
Yeah, but as we both know that would not "require" drilling holes... I can think of more that a few ways to attach it, and question the need to install it there.

It was presented as a "requirement" as in "unavoidable" and hence a rational for running wires up to the dash....

Miami- FANTASTIC post. Really fine effort. Thx

A
I believe he was referring to the main brain for the wireless controller. It has a large box that must be bolted to the front frame of the trailer in order for the accelerometer to work. The wireless part just plugs into the cigarette lighter and doesn't need to be mounted. I just leave mine in the center console.
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  #18  
Old 01-12-2015, 12:51 PM
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I would appreciate any help here. I am installing the factory brake controller in my '09 X5. I have removed all the trim pieces and routed the wire harness up to the side of the center console.

My problem is that the PO spilled a beverage and now the access port cover under the driver's side cup holder is basically seized in place. I tried to remove it using a 1/2" drive bit, but the drive started to dig into the recess before the access port cover even moved. Any suggestions how to "un-seize" the access cover so I can route my harness?

Another question. Has anyone removed the cigarette lighter assembly to the right of the "ash tray/coin tray" and routed their brake harness that way? I think this would be a cleaner install, but access to the lighter assembly looks heinous.

Thanks in advance.

-Chris D.
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'09 X5 X-Drive 35D
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'15 Flagstaff Micro Lite 23LB (Our HoW, House on Wheels)-SOLD
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  #19  
Old 04-20-2015, 12:36 PM
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Well I finished the install of my brake controller with a few caveats.
1) Routing the factory harness up through the driver's drink holder is impossible. The harness is too stiff to flex around a plastic "boss" that is right under the drink holders. I even notched the plastic under the rubber pad to increase clearance, but it still would not pass through easily and I saw a potential for a lot of chaffing in the future.

2) There is not enough clearance to fit the harness up through the holder and though the center hole in the "mounting" bracket. Believe me, I tried and tried to no avail. FYI, I used to assemble custom rack mount chassis with nests of wires and they were way easier than trying to complete this install.

In the end, I just ran the harness all the way to the passenger side of the center console. I left enough harness hanging from the under-dash covers to reach the driver's cup holder. I loop it and tuck it under the floor mat. For use, I just pull it out and route it along the center console and up and over to the driver's cup holder where the controller sits in its metal bracket. Not the prettiest set up, but works for when we tow our travel trailer.

Now, I need to figure out how to add a cup holder that I can use when the towing. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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'09 X5 X-Drive 35D
'15 Porsche Cayenne Diesel
'05 Porsche Cayenne-TRADED-IN
'95 LR Disco I-SOLD
'62 Apache Eagle Pop-up Camper-SOLD
'15 Flagstaff Micro Lite 23LB (Our HoW, House on Wheels)-SOLD
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