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#21
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My ball joints were seized so I ended up having to use a impact gun to loosen the nuts then sledge hammer the crap out of the bolts to get the ball joints to pop out of the carrier. Took me a bit more than two hours tho...didn't keep track since I was partially watching the kiddos. |
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#22
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I had to buy a 27mm, I didn't have one laying around either, but I figured I would keep it in case I had to do tierods as well.
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| '17 F15 X5 35D - Work horse | '17 F48 X1 MSport Daughter's daily | '22 Tesla MY LR Wife's Daily | '09 E70 X5 35D - Out to pasture | |
#23
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I had to throw up the white flag. I had all the right tools and got the left sway bar link for $50.
When I tried to remove it I had no problems getting the nuts off the bolts. What I couldn't do, however, was get the bolts to come out of the holes because they weren't lined up. I would get them out partially and then nothing other than getting a saw to cut the links would do it. I had to button it back up and take it to pep boys. .9 hours of labor..$95. Oh well. |
#24
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edit: thanks for the response PHL
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2004 X5 3.0i - 6 Speed Manual
Last edited by XVII; 05-09-2015 at 05:21 PM. |
#25
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Use a T-40 to hold the bolt. Using a ratchet, put it into the end of the bolt where you are trying to unscrew the nut with an 18mm wrench.
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#26
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Does the knocking sound only happen when the car is warm/hot after driving for about over 3 miles? Or does it knock regardless? What about in the winter?
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#27
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Another scenario is when you hit a pot hole or a bridge tie. |
#28
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I had the same issue doing my passenger side tonight. I stuck a jack stand under the wheel, forget where I positioned it, and let some pressure off the wheel by letting the jack down. It came right out smoothly. I would suggest you let some pressure off of the wheel when doing this, makes things much easier. On a completely different note, I got the upper nut tight then went to torque it, was set to 41 ft lbs, clicked it once and then once more to ensure it was snug and snap! Broke the torx end off in the bolt. Luckily it was torqued to spec so no need to change anything but if I ever need to remove it looks like me or someone else will have to use vice grips to hold the bolt and then remove the nut. I would just suggest being careful to only use the torx to hold the bolt and not to turn the bolt unless you are using tools off the Snap-On truck. My T40 was a weak Husky brand. Other than that wonderful write up and fixed my issue. Lastly, my part for the passenger side only cost $26 from autohausaz[dot]com so not sure why everyone is paying so much for them. |
#29
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$33.95 / pair with free shipping on Ebay.
__________________
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming: "WOW! WHAT A RIDE!!" 2007 M6 2018 Chevy 2500HD Diesel Alaskan Edition 2011 X5 35d 1972 Chevy K20 4X4 1972 Ford F-600 1959 Chevy Viking 60 Dump Truck 2015 CanAm Outlander XT 1000 |
#30
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replacing end links solved 90% of my suspension noise going over bumps. Oddly, I was sure the noise was coming from the drivers side, but when I replaced them (always do pairs- {why don't they sell them pairs?}), the passenger side was much worse. The car has a knock when driving over potholes or rough terrain in general, but it is much better. It has over 160,000 miles so I think it would be very expensive to get it back to new. If you have a woody sort of knock going over bumps, sway bar end links are one of the first places to start.
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