4.8 dustless brake pads

[AlpineMsix]

Where Can I purchase a good set of dustless brake pads for my 4.8.

I have heard good things about the Hawk and Red Stuff. So one of the two would be good, or any other u suggest?

I just want a website where I can purchase them with no hassle or nuthin

[Teutonaddict]

I didn't realize Hawk had a lower dust option, so I went with EBC Red Stuff. Got mine from AJ-USA (www.ajusa.com) for $170/four corners.

Just bedded them in late last night; pad swap was an extended job, as I waxed wheels at the same time. I may need another bedding, as initial bite doesn't feel quite as sharp as stock. Based on prior pad swaps, however, I do expect the initial cold bite to improve over the first few days. I'll post back to update.

What I can say is that the dust properties are infinitely better than stock! My bedding procedure had smoke rising out of the wheel wells (the EBC rears had some proprietary coating (called BRAKE-IN), supposedly to improve the bedding procedure. I had to wipe my finger on the wheel in order to tell that there was anything building up there, and even then it was very light in color. Had these been my original, stock pads, there would have been a solid, black almost powdercoated look to the wheels!

This is one of the first mods I do to all my Bimmers. Before, I'd used Mintex Red Box or Axxis Deluxe Plus. Unfortunately, with the 4.8is' D920 front pad shape, there are only a limited few options.

Good luck!
-Dave

[hoon]

http://www.zeckhausen.com

Talk to Dave.
He is the brake specialist.

[f355b]

porterfield R4-S for the front and the Axxis for the rear.

[f355b]

Got my car back today (Tuesday) put on Porterfield R4-S front pads and Axxis Deluxe Plus rear pads....fronts not available for 4.8 yet. I also put on the stoptech stainless braided brake lines had the wheels steam cleaned and used plenty of wheel wax so fingers crossed they stay clean for more than 50 miles of driving.

http://www.wheelwax.com/
http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/
http://www.zeckhausen.com/

[FeelGoodUnInc]

my front brakes are constantly squeaking, i just recently got new rotors + new brake pads less than 5,000 miles ago...took it into the shop and they said the noise is "normal" for a bmw

which brakes pads are the best for performance? EDC red stuff looks cool but i've never heard of that company

[f355b]

no its not normal, and EDC suck i called dave at Zeckhausen told me to stay away from them, talk to him he will tell you what set up to use. I use the Porterfield R4-S on the front of the BMW, i have them on the Ferrari and love them no dust no noise.

[FeelGoodUnInc]

Originally Posted by f355b

no its not normal, and EDC suck i called dave at Zeckhausen told me to stay away from them, talk to him he will tell you what set up to use. I use the Porterfield R4-S on the front of the BMW, i have them on the Ferrari and love them no dust no noise.

just got off the phone w. dave, he suggested me to try and bed-in my pads as their still new...i'll see how that goes

[f355b]

i read this regarding bedding-in
From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes to slow the car down to about 45mph, then accelerate back up to 60mph and repeat. Do this couple of times to bring the brakes up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.

Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely and sit for any length of time with your foot on the brake pedal, you will imprint pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors. (Note: With some less aggressive street pads, you may need to do fewer than eight near-stops. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.)

The brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even smoke, is normal.

After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a while, using the brakes as little as possible. The brakes need 5 to 10 minutes to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot.

If club race pads, such as Hawk Blue, are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. If full race pads, such as Performance Friction 01 or Hawk HT 14, are being used, add four near-stops from 100 to 10 mph.

After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.

[X5Jay]

Originally Posted by f355b

...I also put on the stoptech stainless braided brake lines...

I'm very curious - did you notice any difference with the stainless brake lines?