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  #11  
Old 04-11-2006, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrLabGuy
I'm not too worried because Jonathan Levi seems like a great guy who would respond quickly to a service concern. The instructions are just not adequate to proceed forward regardless of any of our skill levels. I'm not into guessing when it comes to wiring on my BMW. What we need is a complete and detailed set of instructions which does not leave out 75% of the parts listed. I emailed someone of the board who was very helpful and gave me some more detailed instructions. Email me and I'll send you the brunt of the text. I can't post what he sent me without first getting his permission. My email is mrlabguy at comcast dot com. at+@ dot = . You get the idea.

I'm headed into the city today on some business but will return late this evening to follow up with my email.

Hey Jonathan...Could you pleeeeese post a detailed write up. Photos would be a big help.
MLG - I emailed you but it got bounced back. I am interested in those directions if you get permission. I have sent you my email address thru a private message on this board.
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  #12  
Old 04-11-2006, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrLabGuy
Another concern...Step 6 has the ballasts plugging into the CCFL rings. My plugs on the ballasts are two pin female and the rings are 3 pin female. Too early to have a headache.
They went to a 3 pin plug to get better isolation of the two wires. The center pin is a dummy. There was some problems with arcing as those are high voltage lines. Looks like your kit has a mix of old version ballasts and new version rings. Probably because you requested the PDC ballasts which I suspect they haven't updated to the new connectors.

You could contact the vendor and wait for replacement parts or go to radio shack for a new set of matching plugs which may cost you $5. There is a chance the vendor may tell you to cut the plugs and solder the connections (I've seen that response before) but that's just unacceptable IMO.
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Last edited by rayxi; 04-11-2006 at 12:01 PM.
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  #13  
Old 04-11-2006, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by X5Dawg
MLG - I emailed you but it got bounced back. I am interested in those directions if you get permission. I have sent you my email address thru a private message on this board.
You have email and a PM. Keep me posted
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  #14  
Old 04-11-2006, 12:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayxi
They went to a 3 pin plug to get better isolation of the two wires. The center pin is a dummy. There was some problems with arcing as those are high voltage lines. Sounds like your kit has a mix of old version ballasts and new version rings. Probably because you requested the PDC ballasts which I suspect they haven't updated.

You could contact the vendor and wait for replacement parts or go to radio shack for a new set of matching plugs which may cost you $5.
That is a bummer...Even if the pin count was the same they are still female to female which only works in fantasy's.

LOL

Kidding aside...I take it the ballasts hook directly to the rings?

Michael
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  #15  
Old 04-11-2006, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrLabGuy
I have a one page instruction sheet which addresses the install of the rings and has a short blurb which says:

Splice A to Daytime running lights
Brown(-) Gray (+)

Plug "B" connection to CCfl rings.

Here is the kit with several wires which include a harness, two ballasts and several ends which don't seem to correspond to anything. Now I've not taken the lights out yet but understand I'm not in a hurry to disable my vehicle without first knowing what I'm getting into. The instruction sheet does not address half of what came with the kit. I'm assuming I'm missing a page. BTW...I have plenty of experience with wiring stereo's and other electrical mods. This one on first examination has me scratching my head. HELP!
It's a big mess of wires but the circuit is actually quite simple. It helps to isolate the sections and understand them one by one. Some of my comments may not be applicable to the E53 as I've only installed them on my E46.

Section 1 - Main Power
You have a positive and a ground wire that both run to the relay. The positive is the one with the inline fuse. I recommend you replace the 5 or 10 Amp fuse they give you with a 2 Amp fuse. People have reported problems with the cheap fuses they give you and 5 or 10 Amps is way to much to protect the circuit. Be careful where you connect your ground as not all body points give you good ground because of paint. I measured 700K ohms resistance on the vendor's recommended ground point. Use the negative jumper post if you can.

Section 2 - Relay
That's the black plastic cube with all the wires in the upper right of your photo. You need to locate it close to your power source but away from heat as the lines aren't that long.

Section 3 - 12V Ballast Power
There will be two pairs of wires, one for each ballast. You'll know which wire by the connectors that match up to the ballast connectors. There may be a long pair and a short pair but other than that they are the same. Depending on where you locate your relay you route the short pair down the shorter side to one ballast and the longer pair around the engine to the other ballast. Take your time and use zip ties and existing conduits where you can to keep the wires out of harm's way.

Section 4 - Trigger wires
Depending on your kit the number of trigger wires may vary. They are all the same with regards to the circuit but may vary in length. The function of your rings will depend on where you tap your triggers. I have one trigger on the ECU accessory power and one on my interior footwell light.

Section 5 - Ballasts
There is one pair 12V wires and two pairs of high voltage wires for each ballast. The two 12V wires connects to the wires from the relay. The high voltage pairs connects to the rings. Locate close to the lights in a spot that won't get wet or too hot. Take care in handling and securing the high voltage wires as they are thin and a nick in the wire could cause arcing problems.

Section 6 - Rings
Use the same care in handling and securing the wires. See above post regarding connectors. Secure connectors in a dry location as this is where many arcing problems occur. I taped mine up as an added measure. [edit] I noticed the instructions above show the use of heat shrink on the connections. Use those if the kit comes with them.

Installation tips:
1) Locate your main power/ground before doing anything else. Then lay out your harness to make sure you know the routing.
2) Pull the fuse out of the harness before making any connections.
3) Mount your relay and connect the main power/ground.
4) Lay out the ballasts and rings in a safe place and connect them all up.
5) Connect up one trigger.
6) Put the fuse in and give it a test.
7) If all the rings work then go ahead and complete the install.

Hope that helps.
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Last edited by rayxi; 04-11-2006 at 04:12 PM.
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  #16  
Old 04-11-2006, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrLabGuy
That is a bummer...Even if the pin count was the same they are still female to female which only works in fantasy's.

LOL

Kidding aside...I take it the ballasts hook directly to the rings?

Michael
Not very good QA by the vendor. I couldn't tell the genders from the photo. Yes the ballasts connect directly to the rings.

If the vendor doesn't replace the parts I recommend going the radio shack route over the soldering. Soldered connections are a pain if you ever have to disconnect them or if you want to test them before installing.
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Last edited by rayxi; 04-11-2006 at 07:34 PM.
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  #17  
Old 04-11-2006, 02:11 PM
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Very informative write-up, rayxi. Would you happen to have a camera and take some pix for us and can you elaborate a little bit more on the ECU and interior light wire tapping part (where they are. color, wiring route ...)? Thanks much, rayxi.

Justin.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rayxi
It's a big mess of wires but the circuit is actually quite simple. It helps to isolate the sections and understand them one by one. Some of my comments may not be applicable to the E53 as I've only installed them on my E46.

Section 1 - Main Power
You have a positive and a ground wire that both run to the relay. The positive is the one with the inline fuse. I recommend you replace the 5 or 10 Amp fuse they give you with a 2 Amp fuse. People have reported problems with the cheap fuses they give you and 5 or 10 Amps is way to much to protect the circuit. Be careful where you connect your ground as not all body points give you good ground because of paint. I measured 700K ohms resistance on the vendor's recommended ground point. Use the negative jumper post if you can.

Section 2 - Relay
That's the black plastic cube with all the wires in the upper right of your photo. You need to locate it close to your power source but away from heat as the lines aren't that long.

Section 3 - 12V Ballast Power
There will be two pairs of wires, one for each ballast. You'll know which wire by the connectors that match up to the ballast connectors. There may be a long pair and a short pair but other than that they are the same. Depending on where you locate your relay you route the short pair down the shorter side to one ballast and the longer pair around the engine to the other ballast. Take your time and use zip ties and existing conduits where you can to keep the wires out of harm's way.

Section 4 - Trigger wires
Depending on your kit the number of trigger wires may vary. They are all the same with regards to the circuit but may vary in length. The function of your rings will depend on where you tap your triggers. I have one trigger on the ECU accessory power and one on my interior footwell light.

Section 5 - Ballasts
There is one pair 12V wires and two pairs of high voltage wires for each ballast. The two 12V wires connects to the wires from the relay. The high voltage pairs connects to the rings. Locate close to the lights in a spot that won't get wet or too hot. Take care in handling and securing the high voltage wires as they are thin and a nick in the wire could cause arcing problems.

Section 6 - Rings
Use the same care in handling and securing the wires. See above post regarding connectors. Secure connectors in a dry location as this is where many arcing problems occur. I taped mine up as an added measure.

Installation tips:
1) Locate your main power/ground before doing anything else. Then lay out your harness to make sure you know the routing.
2) Pull the fuse out of the harness before making any connections.
3) Mount your relay and connect the main power/ground.
4) Lay out the ballasts and rings in a safe place and connect them all up.
5) Connect up one trigger.
6) Put the fuse in and give it a test.
7) If all the rings work then go ahead and complete the install.

Hope that helps.
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  #18  
Old 04-11-2006, 03:05 PM
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Mr. Lab Guy.
I would like a set of instructions sent as well, if you could. send them to me via pm.
TIA.
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  #19  
Old 04-11-2006, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justintmn
Very informative write-up, rayxi. Would you happen to have a camera and take some pix for us and can you elaborate a little bit more on the ECU and interior light wire tapping part (where they are. color, wiring route ...)? Thanks much, rayxi.

Justin.
I'm hesitant to do that for several reasons:

1) My install is on a E46 so there may be important differences some may not pick up on if they look at my photos. I haven't looked under the hood of my E53 closely enough to point out where they may be.

2) Kits can vary in color coding the wires so telling you to connect a specific color wire may be wrong for your kit. I have DDE Titaniums. This really isn't necessary as all the wires have connectors that only fit one way, with the exception of the main power.

3) I'm lazy and my engine bay is embarassingly dirty right now.

I tapped one trigger to the accessory wire from the ECU. You need to take the cover off the ECU housing to get at it. On a E46 the wire is red with a white stripe and yellow dots. I cannot verify if it's the same on a E53.

Tapping a trigger to the interior lights (a.k.a. remote trigger) can be done in several ways. Basically you need to find a route through the firewall into the cabin. I went throught an existing opening below the ECU housing into the driver's side footwell. I had to open the cover below the steering column and fish through the wire from the top. Others have had success going through an existing grommet in the firewall on the glove compartment side. I have no idea what method works best on a E53. If need be you can easily extend the trigger wires with a crimp connector.

I found a diagram over on E46Fanatics that may help you.
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Last edited by rayxi; 04-11-2006 at 03:24 PM.
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  #20  
Old 04-11-2006, 04:03 PM
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Thanks for a quick response , rayxi.

Justin.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rayxi
I'm hesitant to do that for several reasons:

1) My install is on a E46 so there may be important differences some may not pick up on if they look at my photos. I haven't looked under the hood of my E53 closely enough to point out where they may be.

2) Kits can vary in color coding the wires so telling you to connect a specific color wire may be wrong for your kit. I have DDE Titaniums. This really isn't necessary as all the wires have connectors that only fit one way, with the exception of the main power.

3) I'm lazy and my engine bay is embarassingly dirty right now.

I tapped one trigger to the accessory wire from the ECU. You need to take the cover off the ECU housing to get at it. On a E46 the wire is red with a white stripe and yellow dots. I cannot verify if it's the same on a E53.

Tapping a trigger to the interior lights (a.k.a. remote trigger) can be done in several ways. Basically you need to find a route through the firewall into the cabin. I went throught an existing opening below the ECU housing into the driver's side footwell. I had to open the cover below the steering column and fish through the wire from the top. Others have had success going through an existing grommet in the firewall on the glove compartment side. I have no idea what method works best on a E53. If need be you can easily extend the trigger wires with a crimp connector.

I found a diagram over on E46Fanatics that may help you.
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