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  #121  
Old 05-27-2017, 11:45 AM
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Nice looking welds. Did you just cut a slot, put in the steel and weld it back up?
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  #122  
Old 05-27-2017, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokeyyank View Post
Nice looking welds. Did you just cut a slot, put in the steel and weld it back up?
Thanks!! Yep, I did... It was a little difficult to get the cut down far enough... I thought about cutting the plate, but I figured it would be stronger this way...

Cheers!!
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2001 E53 X5 4.4i (03-07-2001 build date) White exterior / hellbeige interior (6MT swap vehicle - Manny)
2002 E53 X5 4.6is (12-20-2001 build date) Imola Red exterior / M-texture interior (Red)
2003 E53 X5 4.4i (06-26-2003 build date) Silver exterior / Black interior (Silvester II)
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  #123  
Old 05-27-2017, 07:19 PM
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Good day all!!

Here is the latest and greatest... I got the trans installed today... I got the clutch line bled with the assistance of my amazing better half!! The pressure plate popped to the adjusted position the first time I could get all the pressure off the disc, so don’t be alarmed if this happens to you too... It might have a little to do with alignment of everything too... It will find it’s perfect alignment... I put it in gear and had my better half let out the clutch slowly... It initially grabbed about an inch off the floor, but it would be about half way to get a good bite with the drive line in and the motor doing the work (I was turning it at the output shaft)... Oh, I didn’t get a picture, but the hydraulic port on the master cylinder reservoir is cut easily with a sharp razor... Have a catch cup, but it will empty the small section it uses rapidly, then it drips as that section fills back up... Fluid wouldn’t really flow thru the fill tube unless there is a leak... The only real fluid movement is from the pedal cylinder to the slave cylinder...

I had to tweak the hydraulic line above the trans... I guess the clutch slave cylinder on the 3.0 is higher due to the configuration... The hose was pulled fairly tight with the V8... I just pulled down and over to the drive side a little... Just to get the hose off the side of the trans...





This is the spot the hose was touching...



Now on to the fun stuff... If I was a little smarter, I would have used the long bolt that came out of the cross member to reveal center line... I figured perpendicular to the cross member would be centerline... Nope!!! SO, I would measure about 90mm from the bolt to get a good centerline for the support bar...









I was a bit long, but better that than too short... Total length of the plate is about 400mm... About 250mm from the end of the cross member to the support would work... The plate doesn’t have to be so wide either... Maybe just enough above the cross member would be sufficient...





Okay, ummmm... Now I guess I am going to look at wiring... I need more parts to continue... I have some stuff still on the way...

Cheers for now!!!
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2001 E53 X5 4.4i (03-07-2001 build date) White exterior / hellbeige interior (6MT swap vehicle - Manny)
2002 E53 X5 4.6is (12-20-2001 build date) Imola Red exterior / M-texture interior (Red)
2003 E53 X5 4.4i (06-26-2003 build date) Silver exterior / Black interior (Silvester II)
2008 Mini Cooper S ragtop (04-17-2008 build date) Dark Silver exterior / Gray interior ( Topless)
BMWCCA member (#4745)

Last edited by williamx5; 08-05-2017 at 01:52 PM.
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  #124  
Old 05-29-2017, 11:51 AM
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Good day all!!

Well, here is the most annoying part of this whole project... The wiring!! This is a recap of what I have discovered so far...

The starting circuit is different between the two models (4.4L and 3.0L)... I would imagine the ability to convenient start the V8’s is the reason for the difference... I wouldn’t mind keeping the convenient start, but I am not sure the programming will allow it as some pins are reused for other functions... Notably is pin 8 on the A146 (EWS) module for the X5... The V8’s use it for a starter relay in the E-box. The 3.0L’s use it for the “Start Lock” or clutch start switch for the manuals... It is not used in the 3.0L automatics... Some of the circuits are not in WDS for the X5, so I am resorting to the E39’s... This works for the most part, but some of the wiring is a little different... Some modules are different names... I’m having to spend a lot of time confirming and verifying I’m pulling and splicing or swapping the correct wire(s)... What you are reading now is actually my way of keeping track of what I’m doing... I will be converting the starter circuit to mirror the 540i and 3.0L X5... They are essentially the same, as far as I can see and verify...

The process for this, I have concluded will be as follows...

I will pull the length of 4.0 RED wire from fuse 105 that feeds the EWS... That needs to connect to PIN 8 of S2 (ignition switch)... The wire that was in PIN 8 of S2 is coming from PIN 6 of the DME (??? Using 540i diagram)... This wire might be used for the reverse light circuit... The wire for PIN 8 of S2 doesn’t need to get pulled, but it does need to be heavy gauge... It’s a short hop between the EWS in the foot well on the driver side to the ignition switch... There are three feeders coming from fuse 105... They all have their own run from the fuse block behind the glove box... Disconnecting the correct feeder will give you the wire and the length you need, but I doubt you will be able to pull the whole run from the harness... Now, the wire in PIN 6 loc of the EWS can get pulled and tucked away in the harness... Leave the wire in PIN 8 loc of the EWS! It will be used for the “Start Lock” circuit... Moving over to the E-box, we need to pull the starter relay... PIN 6 and PIN 2 need to be pulled or snipped at the connector, stripped back, and connected together in some manner... I prefer to heat shrink and solder the wires... I will probably double heat shrink this area... The other wires going to the relay can be pulled from the nearest connector... One is the DME PIN 40 (??? Using the 540i diagram)... And the other is the wire we left in place in the EWS PIN 8 for the “Start Lock” circuit... OKAY!! This should conclude the start circuit mods...

******THIS REVERSE SWITCH WIRING HAD AN ERROR AT INITIAL POSTING!! IT HAS BEEN CORRECTED********

The easiest, I think, is the reverse light switch... Using the X5 and 540i diagrams, it is a basic runner using a pair of the old trans wires... It doesn’t matter which ones as it is only a status circuit, not high current... DME CONN 4 PIN 19 goes to IKE CONN 4 PIN 25... DME CONN 2 PIN 2 goes to Reverse switch PIN 1... (Either PIN will work on the switch, but the diagram says PIN 1, yada yada yada)... And Reverse switch PIN 2 goes to ground... Essentially, the trans switch tells the DME the reverse switch is closed, then the DME tells the IKE, then the IKE sends a signal to the LCM to light them up... AND that does it for the reverse light circuit...

Now for the crazy stuff!! Clutch switches... Both... I have to verify the circuit after coding, but essentially, I am going to use the old wires from the starter circuit to wire in the “Start Lock” circuit... Oddly, it uses the same PIN 8 on the DME... I think it is a ground status wire... I’m not sure how the NON-USA manual trans models deal with it... It might just be in the coding... Anyway!!! The way the 3.0L has it wired is F39 has three runners... One going to the EWS, one going to the shift lock, and one going to “clutch pedal position switch”... So, I could tap off the one going to the EWS to supply the power to both of the hall-effect switches for the clutch... These are PIN 3 of each switch...

The shift lock switch uses PIN 2 to go to the EWS PIN 8... And PIN 1 goes to ground... There is already a wire in the EWS PIN 8 that goes to the E-box (starter relay we pulled)... You can use this wire to route over to the shift lock switch (pedal all the way down)... This wire is blue/white...

The clutch pedal position switch uses PIN 2 to go to the DME CONNECTOR 4 PIN 23... And PIN 1 goes to ground... There is another wire in the EWS PIN 6 that goes to the TCU CONNECTOR 3 PIN 3... Maybe we will get lucky enough that the pins in the TCU and DME are the same!!! And the pins in the EWS and clutch pedal position switch are the same!!! We can pull this Pin from the TCU connector and move it over to the DME connector... And pull the pin from the EWS connector and move it over to the clutch pedal position connector... This wire is ALSO blue/white...

And that finishes out the clutch pedal switches...

Well, this is what I am going to go with... So far, all this has just been research... I haven’t actually cut any wires yet, except getting rid of the trans wires from the harness... The oxygen sensor wires are also in that harness, so don’t cut everything and yank the whole harness out...

Ahhhhhhhhh... Almost there... I’m still waiting on a few more parts!! Maybe tomorrow due to the holiday... I may take the cross member back into work and tweak it a little... Center things up and clean up the areas needed... Then it will be the shifter arm and shifter selector rod!!

Cheers for now!!!
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2001 E53 X5 4.4i (03-07-2001 build date) White exterior / hellbeige interior (6MT swap vehicle - Manny)
2002 E53 X5 4.6is (12-20-2001 build date) Imola Red exterior / M-texture interior (Red)
2003 E53 X5 4.4i (06-26-2003 build date) Silver exterior / Black interior (Silvester II)
2008 Mini Cooper S ragtop (04-17-2008 build date) Dark Silver exterior / Gray interior ( Topless)
BMWCCA member (#4745)

Last edited by williamx5; 06-06-2017 at 01:21 AM. Reason: Fixed connector pin error!!
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  #125  
Old 05-29-2017, 08:49 PM
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Damn, that's a lot of pins and wires! Good thing you're recording it all!
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  #126  
Old 05-29-2017, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BimmerM3inGA View Post
Damn, that's a lot of pins and wires! Good thing you're recording it all!
Good day!

Absolutely! It'll be a little easier once I get in there and check out the pins... some of this might be easier than I'm making it out to be...

I'll add a little note about all this rewiring! I would advise you pull the key and put it in the house or tool box... we don't want any modules to turn into paperweights! If the EWS gets the idea things are being tampered with, without the expressed written consent of the EWS ahead of time, you may need to sweet talk it into working again...

Okay... I'm working these next two days, but I'll try to get as much done as possible with what I have...

Maybe we'll get really lucky and the drive shaft will be finished tomorrow or the next day!

Cheers!
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2001 E53 X5 4.4i (03-07-2001 build date) White exterior / hellbeige interior (6MT swap vehicle - Manny)
2002 E53 X5 4.6is (12-20-2001 build date) Imola Red exterior / M-texture interior (Red)
2003 E53 X5 4.4i (06-26-2003 build date) Silver exterior / Black interior (Silvester II)
2008 Mini Cooper S ragtop (04-17-2008 build date) Dark Silver exterior / Gray interior ( Topless)
BMWCCA member (#4745)
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  #127  
Old 05-30-2017, 08:06 PM
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Good day all!!!

I got the parts I was waiting for!! I am very surprised at how the shifter selecting arm looks!! Very large by comparison to the 540i version!! But, maybe it needs to be!! I got a few more of those shifter washers... And the correct “bearings” for the shifter arm... And the clips in the event I can’t find the ones from my son’s old parts box...



Okay, this is something I found by accident… The automatics have a clicker in the pedal to simulate a “kick-down” function for the automatic trans... We don’t need this!! It has TS15 or TS20 Torx (5-point security) screws holding the cover on... I got rid of the security part in the center and used a perfect size flat tip... Obviously it worked... But use your best judgment here... Get the bit to fit it to make things easier...









Tada!!! No more clicker...

I looked at the connectors for the DME and TCU after work this morning... They are the SAME!!! So, just pull from the TCU connector and install in the DME connector... The pins we are concerned with in the EWS are the same as, or close to those in the DME/TCU... But I didn't get a good look at the clutch switch connectors yet... I will be doing a lot, if not all the wiring tomorrow!! I'm super excited to get this part done since it can run with no drive shaft or shifter linkage installed... It might be loud with no exhaust, but....... I don't want any dash errors!! And it needs to start, rev, and idle with NO ISSUES!!!

Cheers for now!!!
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2001 E53 X5 4.4i (03-07-2001 build date) White exterior / hellbeige interior (6MT swap vehicle - Manny)
2002 E53 X5 4.6is (12-20-2001 build date) Imola Red exterior / M-texture interior (Red)
2003 E53 X5 4.4i (06-26-2003 build date) Silver exterior / Black interior (Silvester II)
2008 Mini Cooper S ragtop (04-17-2008 build date) Dark Silver exterior / Gray interior ( Topless)
BMWCCA member (#4745)

Last edited by williamx5; 08-05-2017 at 02:08 PM.
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  #128  
Old 05-30-2017, 09:29 PM
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Good day!!!

I was looking at the REALOEM diagram (that we now know has a possibility of being wrong) concerning the shifter selection arm... It appears to have the bend pointing up, which would look upside down... Anyone with a manual 3.0L care to share how theirs is orientated? Maybe if you have pictures of your UUC upgrade (before and after)???

This is how realoem has it, I think... Keep in mind that there are only two possibilities... Both shown below...



I think this might be a "little more gooder".....



I also noticed the other day that I have 3.64 gears... Not totally ideal, but I think it is a good place to start until I can figure out what else will fit in our rear diff housing... This is the front diff I don't need anymore... It is getting cleaned up and checked out tonight...



More to come tomorrow!! Stay tuned for the coding! This is getting fun!!

EDIT:: I was looking at the shifter connection on the transmission and I think the curve in the selection arm does need to be as in the realoem diagram (first picture above) in order to have clearance of the guibo... I also think the shifter arm is actually close to the correct length!! I will mess with this first after I get home (in about three hours)...

Cheers!!
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2001 E53 X5 4.4i (03-07-2001 build date) White exterior / hellbeige interior (6MT swap vehicle - Manny)
2002 E53 X5 4.6is (12-20-2001 build date) Imola Red exterior / M-texture interior (Red)
2003 E53 X5 4.4i (06-26-2003 build date) Silver exterior / Black interior (Silvester II)
2008 Mini Cooper S ragtop (04-17-2008 build date) Dark Silver exterior / Gray interior ( Topless)
BMWCCA member (#4745)

Last edited by williamx5; 08-05-2017 at 02:15 PM. Reason: PICTURES!!!
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  #129  
Old 05-31-2017, 07:36 AM
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Real progress, nicely done!
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  #130  
Old 05-31-2017, 07:48 PM
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Good day all!!!

I appreciate all the responses!! Thanks guys and gals!! I hope everyone that is enjoying this is learning a thing or two!! I know I have learned more than a few things about doing this kind of project!!

So, a little update on the different aspects of the project...

I called the Carolina Driveline of Spartanburg concerning the driveshaft... The guy working on that wasn't in when I called and I guess he had an appointment after lunch cause I didn't get a return call!!

I got the trans support finished, more or less... I do have pictures that I will load up tonight... It is really amazing how well it turned out! I am going to wait on the final weld to verify the driveshaft alignment... I don't want to torque on the guibo if I don't have to... I currently have the top of the trans about 25mm from the bottom of the trans tunnel... The tighter I get that, the more aligned the shifter connections will be!

I installed the shifter arm and I've determined it is about 70 to 90mm long, depending where you have the shifter poking thru the hole in the floor... I'm going to start with 70 and securely connect (but not weld) the two parts to see how things line up... I can trim more off if need be! I installed the rubber bearings in the arm to get a good measurement... They were a real PITA to get installed... AND I have to get them out before welding or they might melt... UGH!! Think I might get new ones and be done with it!! It was very solid with the bolt I am using!!

The shifter selection rod is the same 70 to 90mm long, despite what I initially thought... It is a stout tube, so I was thinking bout cutting the section out of the middle and using a bar of the right diameter to hold the two halves together until I hit the ideal (for me) length... Then weld that together...

I wrote down the procedure for the wiring... And I love how BMW used the same pin in almost every connector in the vehicle!! I am reusing wires for almost all the changes needed... The Ignition (S2) PIN 8 goes from a thin wire to a heavy gauge wire, so I need a new pin for that... And I need a new connector for the reverse switch... So far, it looks like everything else is a pull from one connector and moved to another... I'm not sure about the run from the DME to the IKE (cluster) for the reverse lights yet... I'm using the S2 PIN 8 old wire for that... I'll need a new connector for that since I can't allocate any other wires that I've found long enough... More to come on that!! The auto shifter has a bunch of wires and connectors that are no longer used, but they routed them under the pass seat to the outside frame rail, forward to the junction below the glove box... I think they would be long enough to make it to the IKE, but that is a TON of work... I do get to reuse some of those connectors for the clutch pedal switches, if needed...

Okay, time to get back out there and continue with the journey!!!

Cheers for now!!
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2001 E53 X5 4.4i (03-07-2001 build date) White exterior / hellbeige interior (6MT swap vehicle - Manny)
2002 E53 X5 4.6is (12-20-2001 build date) Imola Red exterior / M-texture interior (Red)
2003 E53 X5 4.4i (06-26-2003 build date) Silver exterior / Black interior (Silvester II)
2008 Mini Cooper S ragtop (04-17-2008 build date) Dark Silver exterior / Gray interior ( Topless)
BMWCCA member (#4745)
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