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New battery & Alternator causing Trans. Failsafe Prog
I am un-abled to clear the "Trans. Failsafe Prog" mode, which means it drives in limp mode. I have a feeling its' all related to electricity. It logs the P0102 fault via my ODB2 reader. I'm very new, so may have missed something basic
Maybe unrelated, but...
What can I do to remove this Trans. Failsafe error? Please help out with any suggestions.
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02' X5 E53 3.0i Petrol (210k km/130k miles) Will trade coding skills (Javascript, React, Node, Django, Mobile dev) for car knowledge ODB II: ELM 327 (Torque Pro app) Last edited by mcfee03; 10-30-2017 at 05:32 PM. |
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#2
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On the airflow issue it may be the Mass Airflow Meter. But you didn't list the code so I am having to guess. Need the number code not the text.
As for the cig lighter issue. Take a volt meter and put one probe carefully on the center post of the cig lighter socket and then the put the 2nd probe on the outer shell of the cig lighter. See if the center probe is positive or negative. It sounds like the wiring is backwards on the lighter socket with one usb fried and the other making noise. The center post should be positive.
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Just BMW's - All cars and trucks was two pages long 1994 318is 1997 528i 2000 323i 2001 X5 3.0 auto 2005 X5 3.0 auto 2011 535xi auto 2013 X5 xdrive35 Turbo More are at my website Aftermarket E53 Radio Install |
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#4
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P0102 is the code I get (sometimes Pending fault, sometimes actual fault).
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02' X5 E53 3.0i Petrol (210k km/130k miles) Will trade coding skills (Javascript, React, Node, Django, Mobile dev) for car knowledge ODB II: ELM 327 (Torque Pro app) |
#5
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Quote:
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The rear passenger window goes up a bit by itself! The clicking noise could be the sound of the window trying to go up further when its closed. It goes up when the key is outside of the ignition. EDIT: JUST unplugged the MAF while the engine was running. The engine did NOT stop. Could the MAF be the sole cause of this fail safe?
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02' X5 E53 3.0i Petrol (210k km/130k miles) Will trade coding skills (Javascript, React, Node, Django, Mobile dev) for car knowledge ODB II: ELM 327 (Torque Pro app) Last edited by mcfee03; 10-14-2017 at 08:03 PM. |
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You should not have started another thread. All that has been discussed is not available in this one. You are doing everything everyone suggests and some of things you come up with. You are jumping around a given issue and from one issue to another making it extremely difficult to help.
It has been suggested several times to stick to one issue which should be making sure the battery and alternator are working properly. If you are going to DIY the first thing to learn is to follow an established troubleshooting process, take a step by step systematic approach to find the core issue before buying parts. Second, do your own research and then ask questions here or verify what you are told here with your own research afterword. Most threads like this would have been resolved long ago. I don't recall you saying the vehicle starts every time now? Was the battery you bought fully charged when you bought it. Have you started it up and let it idle for 20-30 minutes and monitored voltage? Have you checked for parasitic drain? Did it start and charge OK before the DISA, intake--whatever it was work? How long have you owned your X5?
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X5 4.6 2002 Black Sap, Black interior. 2013 X5M Melbourne Red, Bamboo interior Dallas |
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+1 on reliable start. Yes/no
I'm ok with the new thread it actually goes along with the pick a problem and fix it however there are puzzle pieces missing. Engine doesn't require maf to run as you noticed. A few diagnostic tests pull the plug while running. If your voltage won't stay constant it will definitely trip the trans safe mode. There is a procedure to reset it as this happened to me when I forgot to tighten my alternator power cable after refurbishing. Check the nut on that cable. Stick to one problem at a time. Pull fuses on the gremlins like the power socket and the rear window until the important items are resolved Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) |
#8
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Would like to have answers to the questions and do a parasitic drain test before pulling any fuses.
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X5 4.6 2002 Black Sap, Black interior. 2013 X5M Melbourne Red, Bamboo interior Dallas |
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I think there was confusion on that other thread.
Starting is perfect - a new battery has fixed that. Was the battery you bought fully charged when you bought it. Yes Have you started it up and let it idle for 20-30 minutes and monitored voltage? No, I can't do this as the fail-safe message comes up and hides the voltage Have you checked for parasitic drain? No Did it start and charge OK before the DISA, intake--whatever it was work? Yep worked fine. How long have you owned your X5? 6 months, only driven for 2 of them!
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02' X5 E53 3.0i Petrol (210k km/130k miles) Will trade coding skills (Javascript, React, Node, Django, Mobile dev) for car knowledge ODB II: ELM 327 (Torque Pro app) Last edited by mcfee03; 10-15-2017 at 05:25 AM. |
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New battery & Alternator causing Trans. Failsafe Prog
I'm concerned it's only starting well from the initial charge. Until you can monitor voltage white running for an extended periods you can't tell. You can buy a plug in tester that goes in the cig lighter socket. That could also answer the problem with usb charger.
You need a DMM to work on a car. Get a non-shitty one. Gently used fluke from eBay is a good way to go. I've seen decent new Klein models under $50 don't buy a no-name model. Here's a big duh: did you say you have the wifi obd dongle? Use dash command app to monitor voltage. If the voltage is not reliable the abs will likely disable as well as the trans. Car can still drive with trans in limp home mode just only uses 4th gear so be gentle off the line it will feel like you have some mates outside pushing vs engine. It's called fail *safe*. I drove mine at least 10 miles through 2/3 red lights before I found a place to pull in and Google how to reset the transmission. Having dash command is a life saver I have twice had a sporotic misfired cylinder that tripped an engine limp home mode and it feels like 3/6 cylinders are shut off when that happens. I was able to clear the code and life was back to normal without even stopping the car! That was wild having the engine instantly start working properly while I was still driving! I suspect I might have a weak spark coil as it was the same cylinder but it's only happened twice in 25,000 miles so I have not been able to track down that exact source. Back to your issue: you need to confirm the charging system is working properly before you destroy the new battery. Also confirm no parasitic drain which will require a DMM.
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2011 E70 • N55 (me) 2012 E70 • N63 (wife) Last edited by andrewwynn; 10-15-2017 at 10:11 AM. |
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