|
Xoutpost server transfer and maintenance is occurring.... |
Xoutpost is currently undergoing a planned server migration.... stay tuned for new developments.... sincerely, the management |
![]() |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Rear wiper & washer = broken
The other day I turned on the rear wiper and forgot to free it from the ice, first. Now it is completely broken. ![]() When I turned on the rear wiper, it jammed (and didn’t move), and the rear washer came on and stayed on. I had to pull the fuse for the washer motor (in the rear fuse compartment) to stop the washer. All of the fuses are good and the front wiper/washer/headlamp washers all work fine. I’ve tried pulling and replacing all of the fuses related to the rear wiper (front and rear fuse boxes), waiting a couple of days, slamming the tailgate, messing with the wires in the upper right rubber tailgate boot, but the rear wiper still doesn’t work and the washer is on all of the time. I saw in another thread (here: http://www.xoutpost.com/x5-e53-forum/...their-own.html) that the wires in the rubber boot were shorting, but I haven’t noticed that here, they look fine... Any ideas? Is there a reset switch on the rear wiper motor (A36) or anything like that? Are there any other relays that control the motor / washer that I should look for? Thanks |
Sponsored Links | |
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Found the problem
OK, I finally got around to taking everything apart and taking a look.
I discovered that one of the ICs on the circuit board attached to the motor (part 61 62 6 927 851 ) was completely smoked (You can even see burn marks on the cover): The rest of the board looks intact and it is a waste to replace the whole thing because of a 75¢ chip. Does anyone have a spare broken motor lying around that they want to get rid of? Or, are there any electronics gurus that know where to source a few of these ICs so I can solder on a new one? Or maybe it is possible to cobble together some transistors that replicates the function of this IC? The broken IC is a Freescale (Motorola) MC33286DW [datasheet]. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Just to close out the thread:
I couldn't find a direct replacement for the bad IC, but I found the newer version for $4.50: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...33289DWR2CT-ND It is not quite the same (don't re-connect pin 10), but the functions are close enough. I soldered it in place of the bad one, and I am back up and running. The wiper is working fine, including the timer and everything. Just one problem: The rear washer doesn't work. I suspect that either something else on the PCB is bad, or the open load detection circuit (pin 10) that I disabled is causing the problem. Either way, I barely used the rear washer anyway, so I'm happy with that. $5 and a couple hours of research to fix the rear wiper vs. a brand new part for $300 isn't bad ![]() ...and if I get around to it, I might even bypass the timing and error circuit on the board for the washer and hook the IC's input directly to the stalk lever output (with a voltage regulator)... |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
How were you able to get the side trim off (the trim that concects to thw lower trim?
Thanks, Dan
__________________
2012 Enclave 2010 F-150 XLT 2001 330i |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
I used a piece of plastic (like a flat blade screwdriver) to lift it up, and just pulled it off. It helps to start at the clip above the one that connects to the lower piece, and work down.
I did have a hard time getting the bottom clips out, but I was able to pull it up enough to get a pair of needlenose pliers to help pull out the clip. It may help to push up on the lower panel (e.g. towards the spoiler) while pulling out the tab. Actually, I think it is a little easier to remove the screws and pull the lower panel off first. When I did it, the metal clip came out with the tab on the side piece. Hope this helps... |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
pmt I have two questions .
Did you disconnect the circuit board or did you welded the new ic while it's still attached to the plastic frame? I'm afraid I will break something underneath if I force lifting it. 2nd here is the link to the website has the IC MC33286DW datasheet pdf,MC33286DW supplier,MC33286DW price,MC33286DW picture at UTSOURCE but I'm not sure which one should I get is MC33286DWR2 is the same as MC33286DW ? Thanks in advance |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I believe that MC33286DW and MC33826DWR2 are equivalent. I think the R2 is just a later revision. Back when I did this in 2008, I could not find a source for MC33286DW in quantities less than 100 and had to go for the MC33289DW from digi-key for about $4. I hope this site you found works out for you. Also, if you're taking it to an electronics repair place to have it soldered, they may also be able to get the MC33286DW from their suppliers -- may be worth asking them. Let us know how it goes... |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Dredging up the past....
Pmt,
Thanks for your 6 year old post. I'm having the exact same problem. Didn't clear the ice...wiper IC burned out....washer pump motor stuck on, even with the car off. I'll order the IC and replace. Hootis |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|
|