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#1
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Final Stage Resistor fix DIY
"IF YOU DO THIS PROCESS, YOU ARE DOING IT AT YOUR OWN RISK." IF YOU DO NOT FEEL CONFIDENT DOING THIS PROCESS, "DON'T DO IT!" Uploaded with ImageShack.us |
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#2
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Good tip, and it should get most of these FSR's back working. The only issue I see is that it can't fix the original cause if the issue which is the inefficient heat sink spikes which let too much heat build up in the unit. The new FSR units are an updated design with more efficient heat sinks to prevent the solder joints from getting heat damaged.
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"When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all" (Bender, futurama) You make something idiotproof, they'll make a better idiot You think professional is expensive, just wait until you pay for amateur. Never let your sense of morals prevent you from doing what is right. Examine what is said, not who speaks. X5 pics RIP 4.6is..... 2003 4.6is |
#3
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I agree added sink surface would help. Some larger semiconductors would really help, but the issue is the solder pads. These pads are to small. In the original soldering of the unit, all three pads are the same size as the center pad in each set of three. They were nice enough to leave some extra trace (denoted by solder dots) for the outer pins.
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#4
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Excellent tip. I have an old FSR in my garage I swapped out that I can try this on. Did you reseal it after the repair?
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Wake up every day that would be a start. |
#5
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I did not re-seal my FSR. I figure, if anymore problems develop down the road, I won't have to remove the potting compound a second time. I think this is the last time I will have to touch it though. It works like a brand new unit. (has been for some time.)
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#6
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Cool DIY. Our FSR has been pulsing for a while but it hasn't gone crazy and have the blower motor come on all the time. Also a great chance to brush up on my solder skills!
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#7
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This has to be one of the best tips I've seen here. Thanks Heising! My fan quit today so I pulled that bastard out, re-flowed the solder joints and its working again.
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#8
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Not so easy on a RHD car. Pedals are in the way. I've managed to extract the plug from the FSU but cannot see enough to see what is holding the FSU in place. Any clues please or a photograph of the tab etc that must be holding it. By the way the FSU costs about $400 in the UK.
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#9
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Quote:
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#10
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Quote:
Thank you HEISING!!!! This worked for me and my fan is blowing again... symptoms: Front vents quit blowing air... everything else seemed to be in order. I could hear the ac trying to work if I hit the "MAX AC" button but no air flow. If I tried turning on the fan, absolutely nothing happened. Rear vents worked BTW. This is worth a try for anybody that needs to replace the FSR. I happen to have a soldering iron and have almost no experience with it. (I use it as a wood burning tool) I have never soldered on a circuit-board before. The hard/tedious part was removing the potting material and not knowing how deep to dig without scratching the green board. I used a precision flathead screwdriver to remove the bulk and shaved down a popsicle stick to the size of the flathead to safely remove the remainder. Q-tip dipped in alcohol to clean and better expose the pins and circuit board. It is mentioned in the how-to, but I'll say it again... You don't need to remove the Glove-box to access the FSR. Just the carpeted part where the outlet is attached and the black plastic piece under the glove box where the foot-well light is attached. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!
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SENNA IS MY CO-PILOT! Last edited by rooroo; 07-28-2011 at 08:30 PM. |
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