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  #1  
Old 04-21-2011, 11:15 AM
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Removing Auto trans from 4.4, couple of questions

I realized I was hi-jacking a thread of Civdiv99, so here ghoes in a separate thread.

Ok, the exhaust and heat shields are off. The sway is disconnected but I can't slide it out, what am I missing, anyone done this?

Second problem, there is an electrical plug just in front of the AT oil pan and I don't see how I can disconnect it? Please give me hint or a pic how it parts.

Third, I took the bolts out of the front flex disk. Yet I can't get the drive shaft out, what keeps it in place, or can it only come out when the TC is removed?

Last question, I presume the oil lines have to be disconnected completed both at the cooler and the AT?
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Old 04-21-2011, 11:21 PM
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try this for a start

BMW TIS - 31 35 000 Removing and installing/replacing front stabilizer (M62)

there is a write up or post on a thread somewhere with more detail .

X5Girl has a write up on replacing sway bar bushes which will help . says to lower a subframe mount , not too sure myself . the TIS seems to suggest moving left spring strut slightly to make space , I would try that .

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...on-rework.html


try this for transmission connector
BMW TIS - 24 35 503 Replacing wiring harness in automatic transmission (A5S 440Z)

instructions are not clear on front shaft . only show rear shaft
BMW TIS - 27 10 010 Removing and installing transfer case (automatic transmission)

this shows the transmission removal . there is more to it if you click back to the TIS home page , find your X5 and see all instructions .
BMW TIS - 24 00 021 Removing and installing automatic transmission (A5S 440Z)

Last edited by amacman; 04-21-2011 at 11:49 PM.
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Old 04-22-2011, 08:41 AM
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Thanks a lot, I'll bookmark this site, seems quite useful.
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Old 04-23-2011, 09:36 AM
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Hi, leave the sway bar in the the vehicle and work around it, the elec plug "rotates" to dissconnect, leave the TC on the trans and the front shaft will come back and down with the whole thing, yes unclip the cooler lines from the rad/cooler (be sure to mark which one goes where and flush the cooler and lines) also mark or spray paint the 4- O2 sensor connectors because 3 of them have the same plug and same wire colors, make sure you use the correct fluids , study the shifter cable jam bolt , its easy to damage, the inverted torx bolt heads are soft , dont round them off , its easy to take off the firewall bulkhead by the wipers , then you can get at some of the bellhousing bolts, be sure the starter is straight when you put it in or it will break and last thing is when the trans is out look at the back of the motor for coolant drips or crusty dried antifreeze around the U shaped cover plus the crossover pipe with hoses attached.
Dave
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Old 04-23-2011, 01:28 PM
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Dave - this is great help. Rr drive shaft is off and I am draining the fluid. I am making headway. One more question, how do the quick connects at the cooler come off? Do I pull or push the plastic ring? The whole thing looks a bit fragile and I don't want to break anything up there.

It looks like pushing the line in and then pulling the ring out of the fitting to undo?
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Old 04-23-2011, 01:55 PM
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Push hose towards cooler then push plastic clip towards hose then pull hose away from cooler while pushing on clip, the clip stays with the hose , it does not stay on the cooler. The pipes have a bracket , undo this and leave the pipes in the vehicle , just tie them out of your way. Dont take the cooler off the rad if possible , if you do you will need to drain the rad.
Dave
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Old 04-23-2011, 09:55 PM
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Thanks _ those things are tough to take off!
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:43 PM
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In the end I had to cut one hose as the plastic ring was damaged and would not unlock the quick connect. I hated this part, oil gets all over the place....and I guess now I have to peel the cooler off the rad to do surgery on the remaining quick connect? How is it attached?

So now, with lots of stops and starts, I now have the top bolts out (thx for the hint that they can be accessed from above) and the ones with the nuts are out as well. The others are backed out just enough to come out by hand. I took all the wiring off after taking a picture of how it is attached. I took the fan and shroud off so I can turn the crankshaft from the front as it is time to take the Torq Conv bolts out. One is out but then I got alerted that my son had fished up a computer virus...aaargh.

Virus eliminated and now I think I am ready to get a motorcycle jack, undo the rear brace and and start wiggling it out. Do I need to support the engine while removing the AT? How far does the assembly have to tilt back to allow the trans to separate from the engine?
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Old 04-25-2011, 09:37 AM
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If you had cut one hose in the middle you can use a 3/8 barbed connector and hose clamps to repair it (its low pressure), the cooler is easy to remove, you will see a single u clip (like the rad hoses have) lift that upwards and the cooler will come away from the rad. The fan and shroud can stay on but its good have them off, dont rotate the engine counter clock wise because it puts slack in the timing chain and then you may have noises after, the converter can fit to the ring gear in any position as its not balanced together but a shot of spray paint in one hole is a good idea,put two wratchet straps around the transmission and motorcycle jack , there is no need to support the engine although Mitchell and Alldata ect say you have to, the motor balances perfectly on the two mounts, use a bottle jack at the front and tip the motor an inch or so , keep the trans jack at that same level, (when the bellhousing gap opens , keep that gap the same all the way around, dont bend the flex plate, move the trans rearward enough to clear the sway bar then let it down , the vehicle will have to be jacked up very high in order to roll trans out ,there is a crank sensor on the lower right , take it out of the trans first . Did you mark the oxygen sensor connectors ? did you drain the trans ? by the way what is wrong with the trans ?
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:19 AM
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The car is from '03 and putting new hoses is likely to be normal at 95k anyway, they don't seem to have been replaced yet. The trans is making a grinding noise and shifts clunky when coming to a stop and pulling away (but no codes) and last issue to crop up, it was slipping rather badly going uphill. I followed your instructions, drained the AT before removing the oil lines and everything is marked. I suspect the failure mode is like civdiv and PhilRR describe.

Thanks for clarifying the removal proces! I am wondering if an m/c jack is even going to help me much, I might build a little skid out of 2x4s that I can hold on two floor jacks, not sure yet.

Once I can see the innards of the AT I will probably order parts and while I wait for them it is time for the V-pan gasket....it has a slow leak and will be a good time to tackle anything on the back of the block. Also waiting is the fuel filter and I need to do the rear upper control arms as it is deveolping too much camber. Needless to say I don't expect it to be in the street for a couple of weeks yet.

Wife is driving the Tundra for the moment (at least one vehicle that appears to be bomb-proof :-).
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