'11 CEL AdBlue code

[schneids33]

So my wifes '11 is 35D is in the shop right now for new front brakes. The CEL has been on for the last few weeks. They topped it off today and reset the code, afterwards it came back on (2x). The code they said they are pulling is the AdBlue sensor. They said if it happens again they are going to replace the sensor. I have searched the forums and not seen anything similar. Thoughts?
thanks

[Ozer]

You should get the code and post it, is it saying you have this many miles to go before it runs out or is it the code for the temp sensor because they are different and one will be easy, other will put a sizable hole in your wallet. You cant change just the sensor on the urea tanks, the whole tan needs to be replaced.

Get the code, scan it yourself, take it to autozone for a free scan.

[schneids33]

Originally Posted by Ozer

You should get the code and post it, is it saying you have this many miles to go before it runs out or is it the code for the temp sensor because they are different and one will be easy, other will put a sizable hole in your wallet. You cant change just the sensor on the urea tanks, the whole tan needs to be replaced.

Get the code, scan it yourself, take it to autozone for a free scan.

Waiting for the response from my wife regarding what exact code it's pulling...thanks. Hopefully they will give it to me otherwise i will go to autozone tonight.

I searched before regarding the codes for the adblue issue and did see the temp sensor come up a few times. I saw different prices and didn't really research the exact cost but did see some of the parts being in the $400 range. Is this correct? That plus labor makes me scared for a bill north of $550 for a bad sensor.

[Ozer]

The dealer rate for passive and active tanks are around $1300 a piece, may be able to find it cheaper but they arent cheap. I have codes for both tanks at the moment and im NOT spending that much to fix them soo.. i may go with the DPF delete method and eliminate all that crap.

[schneids33]

Appreciate the feedback

My wife just rolled up and was told me "They aren't sure which part I need. It's either a new ab fluid tank or the valve on the outside. Will show you a picture. later. Code is 46F9-P205C. He said "if you do your own research, don't believe everything you read.""BMW forum isn't always a good thing"

Kinda curious how they can't figure out why they can't figure out what's the root cause.

Is replacing the valve a good thing to try and fix first? Seems like it would be less expensive to start with. what kind of delete are you mentioning? Sorry not familiar. Appreciate the input.
Thanks again.

[ZetaTre]

Originally Posted by schneids33

BMW forum isn't always a good thing

Ahahaha... THAT is very true; just like "BMW Certified Technician isn't always a good thing"

Read, learn, and draw your own conclusions: don't believe everything you read on forums and don't believe anything the service advisors tell you. The important things to know is that 6-Sigma and QA not only improved the repetitivity of process as a prerogative to quality; but also results in the repetitivity of issues: meaning 99.9% of the time you have an issue, someone else had it. Forums have a broader user base than your local dealership and allow to see the recurrance of issues.

Now, back to your issue.

That code has to do with the temperature sensor in the active tank. You can thank BMW and Bosch for having to replace the whole damn tank for a stupid temperature sensor. But yea, it happens quite often.

Replacement of the tank requires the removal of the front bumper and then it's right there. The price of the active tank has come down substantially and it's now around 900 bucks from the initial 1400. There's reconditioned unit for sale by a Canadian supplier that go for 450 but I doubt a BMW dealer would use it.
You can find the tank online for 20% for a net of 788.58 (BMW Parts and Accessories | GetBMWParts.com). If your dealer doesn't want to match that ask them the list of parts they need and you will supply it to them.

You're in FL: on one side you have very lax emission regulations, on the other you don't get CA Emission Warranty that may have covered you...

You can obviously continue to drive with your CEL on and forget about it.

[ninja_zx11]

^^^ Well said and well described!!

[jfoj]

Do not know much about the Diesel, but what about spoofing the temp sensor circuit with a resistor of some sort??

Might be an idea, not sure if it can be pulled off, but might be worth considering.

[ZetaTre]

Originally Posted by jfoj

Do not know much about the Diesel, but what about spoofing the temp sensor circuit with a resistor of some sort??

Might be an idea, not sure if it can be pulled off, but might be worth considering.

The sensor is a negative coefficient temperature sensor which is pretty much how most coolant temperature sensor work.

If it was my car I'd try to drill the tank and add a regular sensor somewhere and then wire it into the loom.

I wouldn't just bypass it since it would take just as much effort...

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

[Ozer]

^ Thats an idea, as long as you match the wires up it should work sounds like.
Maybe someone with a bad tank will do it and report back.